Speed Control and Frightening Noises

[dusty]

I had something happen today that has not happened since I got my SS in the late 80s.

I had been cleaning and lubricating my 510. It was all closed up and ready to back into service. I turned it on and ran it through a speed change from low to high speed. I was very near the top speed when suddenly I heard what I would describe as metal to metal scrapping. Really sounded BAD. I backed off the speed the noise became normal. I once again approached the top end (very carefully, I might add) only to hear the noise again.

I backed off the speed, shut it down and opened for an inspection of damage. I see none. With it open, I ran it back up to near top speed to see if I could locate the source of the noise. I did not and as long as I stay below "S" (on the speed dial) I hear nothing unusual.

I don't have a problem until I get up into the top of the 'Shaping/Routing' speeds.

It's Christmas time and I have a build schedule to keep so I closed without further delay and went back to work,

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what might be causing the noise.

[reible]

Sounds to me like a case of the control sheave assembly hitting the speed control bracket... resetting the high speed stop should fix it. Look for the section called adjusting the high speed setting in your manual.

Ed

[alberrt2]

I agree it sounds like the control sheave assembly. I just had the same problem with the loud screaching. My assembly eventually went bad and I replaced it. Seems there are bearings in the end of it; perhaps you know that, but I didn't. My lubricating must not have been enough and the bearings must have gone dry. Anyway it works fine now.

[rolands]

I just replaced my Control Sheave assembly last week and I'm sure it failed after 18 years because of lack of proper maintenance, but I'm not sure that I have the speed adjusted right. Even tho the saw works well, the speed doesn't sound just right. SS sent instructions on high speed adjustment with or without a tachometer and I did it without a tachometer. I can get a automotive tachometer, but can this be used on the SS to adjust the speed? If so, how is it connected? I would really like to make sure that the high speed is at 5200 rpm. If anyone can help me with my lack of knowledge here, it would be appreciated. Thanks.

[8iowa]

My headstock (1983 model) has just developed a rattle and scraping noise. As I moved the speed dial up it got worse. I installed the new 2 bearing quill but that did not change anything.

In 2000 I replaced the control sheve assembly because the bearing failed. It actually disintegrated. This is a permanently sealed bearing which cannot be re-greased. The headstock had worked fine - until now.

Since my son and I have used this machine a lot through the years I decided to return it to Shopsmith's repair service in Dayton. After all those years of faithful service I decided that the headstock deserved to be re-furbished.

The hardest part of the job was in building a "double cardboard" box. I glued styrofoam blocks to the bottom and stuffed heavy craft paper quilted pads all around the headstock. It costs $41.27 to ship the unit to Dayton via UPS, which includes $7.50 insurance.

In 2-3 weeks they will inspect the headstock and then call me to authorized the necessary repairs. I'll report back here as to their findings and repair costs.

[dusty]

Does the scheduled headstock refurbish result in a 1 1/8 hp motor or does SS simply recondition the motor in its original configuration?

If you get the larger motor it'll probably seem like it has been turbo charged.

Just curious.

___________________
Making Sawdust Safely

[8iowa]

Dusty:

Dave in Shopsmith's Dayton retail store told me that they do not service the motor. They will install a new motor if you wish. The cost is $350. It's also a fact that most single phase motors made since the 60's are not very serviceable anyway. ( I used to work for Delco in Dayton back when they made electric motors)

If you have the older Mark V with a 3/4 HP motor, the 1 1/8 HP motor replacement would be a natural if you are going to go to the effort to send your headstock back to Shopsmith to be re-conditioned. Your old motor may have seen it's best days anyway.

[billmayo]

I feel the 1 1/8 HP motors (1960 and later) are very serviceable. If there is a burnt smell from the motor, then replace it, don't have it rewinded. I had no problem finding several local electric motor rebuilders who would replace the bearings and clean up the start winding contact points for around $70-$75. Since I had the first motor rebuilt (time constrant), I have been replacing the bearings and cleaning the points myself for any headstock I sell or repair. I find the front bearing (next to the fan sheave) will need replacing most of the time, so I just replace both bearings since the motor is disassemblied. Also, I find that most floating sheaves (on the motor shaft) will have a slight sticking problem. I always removed it to clean the inside of it and the motor shaft of any old oil/sawdust/etc (crud). I have a pdf Shopsmith instruction on how to remove/replace motor spring if anyone needs it.

Bill Mayo billstoolz.com

Dusty:

Dave in Shopsmith's Dayton retail store told me that they do not service the motor. They will install a new motor if you wish. The cost is $350. It's also a fact that most single phase motors made since the 60's are not very serviceable anyway. ( I used to work for Delco in Dayton back when they made electric motors)

If you have the older Mark V with a 3/4 HP motor, the 1 1/8 HP motor replacement would be a natural if you are going to go to the effort to send your headstock back to Shopsmith to be re-conditioned. Your old motor may have seen it's best days anyway.