backhertz
04-30-2008, 02:21 AM
Hi all,
I am in the process of totally rebuilding my headstocks before the parts sale expires. I have one old one, relatively speaking, a 1981. This was my $125 purchase. It has a lot of rust. Anyhow, I'm using Jacob Anderson's repair DVDs. I bought the set for $29. I would rather watch Nick & Drew for free, but Jacob, in his one man, two dog show has covered every single Mark V, starting in the 50's. On the head stock DVD, he takes the time to show the differences between the motors, belts, etc. In his motor DVD, he show enough so an average person with average skills and average tools can troubleshoot and/or repair a bad motor.
Anyway, in the old one and my other two head stocks, preventive maintenance was absent. So I'm paying the price now & replacing all the belts, bearings, and other wear items. Do I absolutely have to? No, but in some cases, yes. For example, a motor fan sheave was actually warped/bent. Being this was head stock was my fathers, I know he never took it apart. I figure it was that was from Day 1. Many bearings are dry. My head stocks will essentially be new when I'm finished. I simply need to get my saw blades sharpened & I'll be making chips in no time. I'm in NJ, near Exit 5 off the NJ Turnpike. Anyone know a good saw blade place?
A simple preventive maintenance program will keep them that way. Simply blowing the dust out of the motor pans will prevent rust. The motor pan on the 1981 model is so bad, I'm simply going to replace it.
I almost made it to Harbor Freight to purchase a 12-ton bearing press. But Craig's List saved me. I only need to drive an hour to go pick it up. I've always wanted one, but usually found a way around it. Now I have 'extra' bucks to buy the bearing separators and proper sized snap ring pliers. I want to try and figure a way to only have to replace the tiny bearing in the control sheave. But that looks to be tricky. It's a low priority.
But a higher priority to me would be installing a cumulative hour meter to keep track of the running time so preventive maintenance can be accomplished in a timely basis. I found a meter for $10 from Midwest Equipment.com. I simply need to find a place to mount it either on the head stock- logical spot, or maybe - you know the headstock is probably the only place.
I found a place on Ebay that sells Fafnir bearings. He has the drive sleeve & the larger quill bearing for $4.00 & $5.00 respectively, but quantities are limited. I ordered the remaining bearings from E. B. Atmus. Their prices are much more, but reasonable. I'm not totally sure why Shopsmith doesn't sell em. It's not like any of us would simply replace totally assemblies unless absolutely necessary.
I am also getting my speed knobs modified by Don Horne. He removes the aluminum casting gear and machines the dial so it will accept a steal gear held by a set screw- all for $16.00.
Tony
I am in the process of totally rebuilding my headstocks before the parts sale expires. I have one old one, relatively speaking, a 1981. This was my $125 purchase. It has a lot of rust. Anyhow, I'm using Jacob Anderson's repair DVDs. I bought the set for $29. I would rather watch Nick & Drew for free, but Jacob, in his one man, two dog show has covered every single Mark V, starting in the 50's. On the head stock DVD, he takes the time to show the differences between the motors, belts, etc. In his motor DVD, he show enough so an average person with average skills and average tools can troubleshoot and/or repair a bad motor.
Anyway, in the old one and my other two head stocks, preventive maintenance was absent. So I'm paying the price now & replacing all the belts, bearings, and other wear items. Do I absolutely have to? No, but in some cases, yes. For example, a motor fan sheave was actually warped/bent. Being this was head stock was my fathers, I know he never took it apart. I figure it was that was from Day 1. Many bearings are dry. My head stocks will essentially be new when I'm finished. I simply need to get my saw blades sharpened & I'll be making chips in no time. I'm in NJ, near Exit 5 off the NJ Turnpike. Anyone know a good saw blade place?
A simple preventive maintenance program will keep them that way. Simply blowing the dust out of the motor pans will prevent rust. The motor pan on the 1981 model is so bad, I'm simply going to replace it.
I almost made it to Harbor Freight to purchase a 12-ton bearing press. But Craig's List saved me. I only need to drive an hour to go pick it up. I've always wanted one, but usually found a way around it. Now I have 'extra' bucks to buy the bearing separators and proper sized snap ring pliers. I want to try and figure a way to only have to replace the tiny bearing in the control sheave. But that looks to be tricky. It's a low priority.
But a higher priority to me would be installing a cumulative hour meter to keep track of the running time so preventive maintenance can be accomplished in a timely basis. I found a meter for $10 from Midwest Equipment.com. I simply need to find a place to mount it either on the head stock- logical spot, or maybe - you know the headstock is probably the only place.
I found a place on Ebay that sells Fafnir bearings. He has the drive sleeve & the larger quill bearing for $4.00 & $5.00 respectively, but quantities are limited. I ordered the remaining bearings from E. B. Atmus. Their prices are much more, but reasonable. I'm not totally sure why Shopsmith doesn't sell em. It's not like any of us would simply replace totally assemblies unless absolutely necessary.
I am also getting my speed knobs modified by Don Horne. He removes the aluminum casting gear and machines the dial so it will accept a steal gear held by a set screw- all for $16.00.
Tony