500 vs. 505/510/520 Shaper Fence ?

[gilamonster]

I was also curious if anyone had a 500 Mark V with Shaper Fence, and if they had upgraded to 510 or 520, what they had to do with their Shaper Fence to keep in business....

that would be me.

First, I inherited my Dad's ca. 1956 greenie, which came with the early Shaper Fence. Then in about 1990, I upgraded the SS to a 510. I also purchased the Speed Increaser at that time. Just this week (life interfered :D ) I began to set it up with the Speed Increaser to use that as a router, for a project.

Of course I discovered yesterday that the Model 500 Shaper Fence won't attach to the 510 table, without drilling, so that is why I came here to see what I could find out. I guess I will contact SS for a template for drilling a hole or two.

In the meantime, here's what I had done with the original fence: I made a portable table top by lamininating 1/4" hardboard atop 3/4" plywood. On the bottom I mounted a cleat for the 510 table top miter guage track (plus a stop to locate the portable top on the 510 table).

I mounted the Shaper Fence on the portable unit, and have used that setup for a fence under the drill press/overhead router operations.

[wdelliott]

Couldn't you use the old 500 main table for the sole purpose of holding this shaper fence and when finished switch back to the 520 table, as opposed to drilling the holes in the new 520 table?

[dusty]

I use my father's shaper fence on my 520. I found that I can mount it with no modificatioins to my table:) . I use the miter tracks and 2 "55916" and threaded knobs to mount the fence assembly to the table. The only modification I did was make 2 spacer blocks to push out the wood fence face 1.25 inch from it's original position. This makes up for the difference in location from the mounting hole to the miter track. The blocks are easy to remove if I need to put the fence back on his 500.

I will add photos.

Al B

I have seen your photos. Very creative solution.

I would like to make one observation, however. It appears to me that when you tighten down the knobs to secure the fence in position on the table that you are screwing down onto the bottom of the miter track. I suspect that this will leave some gawling that you might now want.

Using a fender washer on that bolt, positioned above the table, with a spacer between the washer and the bottom of the knob, will eliminate that tendency. The bolt could be cut off to eliminate the need for the spacer.

Rather than screwing down onto the miter track, this method works by pulling up on the miter nut and squeezing the miter track between the knob and the washer. No more marks on the table.

I have a miter track that is really dinged up from having done what you have pictured.

I have become anal about marking up my tables, especially if it can be avoided.

[albie]

Dusty,
I find you many posts quite informative. I am happy you find my “simple” solution creative.

I do not like to damage any of my aluminum surfaces, so the knob is only long enough to thread into the miter track nut. I do use a fender washer to displace the force of the nut on the top of the aluminum fence assembly. These knobs are a bit clunky, being large, but they work quite nicely. One could easily use ¼-20 threadded knobs in to the same nuts.

About a month after my previous post I lost my father. I now have my memories with him and his Shopsmith to remind me.

Al B

[dusty]

Dusty,
I find you many posts quite informative. I am happy you find my “simple” solution creative.

......

About a month after my previous post I lost my father. I now have my memories with him and his Shopsmith to remind me.

Al B

Thank you for the kind words.

Just rest assured, you will never again be working alone in your shop. Pay attention when that small voice tells you this ain't right. Stop and reassess what you are doing.