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Ed in Tampa
07-02-2008, 04:39 PM
Daring fate and sanity, I broke out my complete A Line It Kit and dared to check my saw. Yikes.....dial indicator had my settings off a sinful .009!

Hmmm.....Not to follow Ed down the WIA road, I grabbed my miter gauge, long 5/32 key, then checked the way I learned at the three TA's I attended. Saw was dead -on. I checked the alignment on my fence and the new overhead fence jig. Again....dead on.

If anyone is interested in a barely used, full A Line It Kit, PM me. That puppy will drive you nuts.

An easier method for checking vertical alignment: I watched The Woodsmith Shop and they showed removing the insert plate, then using a good miter square, you can check how the entire blade width is aligned with the table. A check with a flashlight will show daylight if not at 90. Easier....better.

We have driven each other nuts on this forum over this topic. I remember Doug Reid claiming that he did simple checks each morning... and his had yet to have a correction made. Lesson? Once you have it "squared up", it's best to leave it alone.

Lets' all enjoy this weekend. Say a prayer for our troopers who won't be here for the festivities, but are paying so we can enjoy it.

Doc, USArmy...Retired

Doc
I totally agree!!! A while back I declared dial indicators in wood shop were put there to make you crazy. I believed it then and I really believe it now.

When I first got my SS I set it up using the methods in the book (much like you describe above) and cut for nearly 25 years only realigning it when I got the my 510 upgrade. It cut like satin, smooth and straight, no swirl marks no out of true.

Then about a year ago everyone started talking about dial indicators and "accuracy" I went out and bought one. Since then I really believe my quality of cut has shown a decline. One thing is for sure I was cutting less and playing with the stupid dial indicator more. :mad:

I for one will not offer to buy your "A line it" kit. :p

A long hex wrench in the mitre slot does a really really super job!!!!! Incidentally after I set my SS up with the dial indicator the last time I checked my work using the old method. I know for a fact had it been off according to the old method I would have changed it. However God watches over idiots like me and He didn't want me to damage anymore of my body so by his grace my table was aligned perfectly according the mitre gauge method. ;)
Ed

osx-addict
04-20-2009, 07:35 PM
A long hex wrench in the mitre slot does a really really super job!!!!!
Anyone have any suggestions on where to get one of these long 5/32 hex key/wrenches? I took one of my longest skinny screwdrivers and put it through the hole in the miter slot and perhaps 1/4" was sticking out the other side.. I now see that Eklind sells a 6" and 12" version of the 5/32 wrench.. The 6" seems a bit short I believe.. Is the 12" the version to go for?

Below is the Eklind site:

http://www.eklindtool.net/product/12invinyl.html

dusty
04-20-2009, 08:50 PM
Anyone have any suggestions on where to get one of these long 5/32 hex key/wrenches? I took one of my longest skinny screwdrivers and put it through the hole in the miter slot and perhaps 1/4" was sticking out the other side.. I now see that Eklind sells a 6" and 12" version of the 5/32 wrench.. The 6" seems a bit short I believe.. Is the 12" the version to go for?

Below is the Eklind site:

http://www.eklindtool.net/product/12invinyl.html

It is Shopsmith part # 942328
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/mvmaint_helpkit.htm

but to respond to your specific question and need - I use something else.

Miter Gauge Stop Rod, 505629

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/itemfind.htm?item=505629&Submit=Find+Item

Ed in Tampa
04-21-2009, 12:28 AM
Anyone have any suggestions on where to get one of these long 5/32 hex key/wrenches? I took one of my longest skinny screwdrivers and put it through the hole in the miter slot and perhaps 1/4" was sticking out the other side.. I now see that Eklind sells a 6" and 12" version of the 5/32 wrench.. The 6" seems a bit short I believe.. Is the 12" the version to go for?

Below is the Eklind site:

http://www.eklindtool.net/product/12invinyl.html

The long hex wench is neat for this adjustment but is a little impractical for anything else because of the lenght allows the wench to torque a lot.

Instead of making yourself crazy trying to find the wrench just use a 1/4 inch dowel. I actually built one with a small block of wood on the end. The wood provides an excellent sight line to look between it and blade/disk your using to align your table. I just use the miter guage screw to hold the dowel in the hole, with the small block on the other end I move the dowel in or out until the block is just touching the blade. I lock down the screw and then slide the mitre to the rear most position, turn the blade so I'm checking the same point and look between the blade and block. If I see light I can then use a feeler gauge to measure how much and get an idea of how much I must move the table.

One or two give and takes like this and my table is perfectly aligned.

osx-addict
04-21-2009, 01:32 AM
Instead of making yourself crazy trying to find the wrench just use a 1/4 inch dowel. I actually built one with a small block of wood on the end. The wood provides an excellent sight line to look between it and blade/disk your using to align your table. I just use the miter guage screw to hold the dowel in the hole, with the small block on the other end I move the dowel in or out until the block is just touching the blade. I lock down the screw and then slide the mitre to the rear most position, turn the blade so I'm checking the same point and look between the blade and block. If I see light I can then use a feeler gauge to measure how much and get an idea of how much I must move the table.

Ed -

I don't suppose you've got a pic? I'm trying to picture it in my head but...
I like the idea of using the 1/4" dowel since I bought a 4' length yesterday for other alignment purposes.. :rolleyes:

osx-addict
04-21-2009, 01:33 AM
It is Shopsmith part # 942328
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/mvmaint_helpkit.htm

but to respond to your specific question and need - I use something else.

Miter Gauge Stop Rod, 505629

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/itemfind.htm?item=505629&Submit=Find+Item

Thanks Dusty.. I had discounted the one in the kit as it was a 'T' style not the 'L' style used in the video.. Oh well..

Ed in Tampa
04-21-2009, 12:41 PM
Ed -

I don't suppose you've got a pic? I'm trying to picture it in my head but...
I like the idea of using the 1/4" dowel since I bought a 4' length yesterday for other alignment purposes.. :rolleyes:

Rick
It is just a dowel with a block of wood on the end. The dowel end I stick in the hole in the side of the miter slot and use the hex nut to tighten it. The other end just has block of wood about 1"x1" with a hole in it where the dowel goes. When I want to align my miter slot to the blade I simply stick the dowel in the miter adjust it in or out until the wood block is just touching the blade. I then lock the dowel in place with hex nut. Then I slide the miter gauge to rear of the machine and turn the blade so the wood block is touching the same location on the blade. Now I sight between the blade and wood block. If is just touching the slot and blade is parallel. If the wood block is wedged against the blade then the table is out of parallel with the back too close to the blade. If there is space (seen as light) between the blade and the block then the table front is too close to the blade.

dcottrill
06-04-2009, 11:19 PM
I have been slowly working on honing my original 1988 purchased shopsmith to refine it and improve it's over all performance. Equipped with Nick's sawdust wisdom, a dial indicator and great enthusiasm I took on the task of aligning the miter slot to the blade. Then my nightmares came back.

In the spring of 1988 trying to align the miter slot to the blade the first time I went through 2 table and several hours of phone conversations with SS Techs. Finally giving up or in and believing it was only possible by someone with super human skill I accepted was good enough.

This week the first night was a disaster. I was up until 2 AM and had to get up to go to work at 6:00 AM. The table was worse than when I started. It was out 0.100"! I went backwards….

The second attempt was even worse as I had lost my patients. Wife rescued me and went to bed at midnight.

Tonight out of total frustration and a table that was over all worse than when I started (had to almost hammer it out of the carriage). I tore the table completely apart. I noticed that the OUTFEED trunnion holes are 3/8” and the INFEED trunion holes are 1/2”. Time for some research…

After reading two different discussions on this I discovered

- I have a defective outfeed (rear) trunnion.

Hats off to those of you that were able to align your SS with the undersized holes. The best I have ever been able to do is 0.025". I'm hopeful that I will now be able to approach the precission that Nick and several of you have obtained.

Tomorrow, I will be contacting Shopsmith to discuss.

I will keep you posted.


:confused: :(