Nick
08-28-2008, 05:06 PM
Okay, it's a picnic table -- which probably means it's meant to be used outside. I would forget anything that involves the use of glue, even waterproof glue. The wood in outdoor projects shrink and swell a great deal more than wood used indoors for obvious reasons. Glue glue joints rarely hold up to the continual movement.
Before we discuss how to attach the top to the aprons, you might consider that the plans as drawn have two potential flaws. First, there is not sufficient side-to-side stability. I would consider adding diagonal braces that run from the seat supports (C) to the top brace (D). Second, there are no spaces between the top boards (E). These boards are normally spaced about 1/4" apart to lower the likelihood of water standing on the top and allow the surfaces between the top boards and the cross members (B) to dry quickly after a rain.
My suggestion is that you attach the top boards to the cross members with stainless steel/brass/bronze wood screws. (You only need consider bronze if you live in an area very near salt water.) If you don't want the screws to show, add two battens, each running parallel to the cross members and butting edge-to-face against their inside surface. The top brace will have to be notched to accommodate these battens. Fasten the batten to the top board with screws from the underside, then fasten the crossmembers to the battens with screws.
With all good wishes,
Before we discuss how to attach the top to the aprons, you might consider that the plans as drawn have two potential flaws. First, there is not sufficient side-to-side stability. I would consider adding diagonal braces that run from the seat supports (C) to the top brace (D). Second, there are no spaces between the top boards (E). These boards are normally spaced about 1/4" apart to lower the likelihood of water standing on the top and allow the surfaces between the top boards and the cross members (B) to dry quickly after a rain.
My suggestion is that you attach the top boards to the cross members with stainless steel/brass/bronze wood screws. (You only need consider bronze if you live in an area very near salt water.) If you don't want the screws to show, add two battens, each running parallel to the cross members and butting edge-to-face against their inside surface. The top brace will have to be notched to accommodate these battens. Fasten the batten to the top board with screws from the underside, then fasten the crossmembers to the battens with screws.
With all good wishes,