About the wood

[Nick]

If this is your first woodworking project then I would suggest something a bit less demanding.

As a long-time woodworking instructor, I strongly disagree. If Mission furniture has taken your fancy, pursue it. Something simpler may not be nearly as as challenging or as soul-satisfying. "A man's reach should exceed his grasp, or what's a heaven for?" -- Robert Browning

With all good wishes,

[wgander]

The first serious project I made was a cedar lined foot chest of hard wood.
It was all mortise and tenon work - no screws or nails - and raised panels.
I still remember thinking I was in over my head before the end of my second evening working on it. That was about 30 years ago; we still use that chest and we've moved three times since then: I still get a grat feeling of satisfaction every time I pause to admire it.
SO, tackle whatever project you want. Just take your time and learn - don't get frustrated.

[grayhane]

Thanks to all for the much needed info. And to Nick, thanks for the encouragement on starting with a project that has 28 mortise joints.

When I first decided to undertake this addiction, my first purchase was a book caled the complete guide to sharpening. Armed with that book and a few used planes and chisels, during the time I have been rebuilding the SS, I learned to make my edged tools sharp as a razor so I believe they are up to the task.

I also purchased a book around the same time called Woodworking Wisdom, a picture of the slender author graces the cover. After pouring over the contents repeatedly, I feel I will be upto the task of handling the chisels.

My only real concern is if I should clean up the corners of the joints by using the chisel from the edges of the joint to the center, and then do the same starting from the other side working towards the center to avoid any breakout, or just start at what will be the most visible side of the joint and just work from one side ? Hope that made more sense than it sounded to me.

[Nick]

Get yourself a mortising chisel (available from Woodcraft), get it razor sharp, set it on the layout line the defines the corner perpendicular to the grain, and drive the chisel down. Simple as that. I believe I show how to do this in http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS101/SS101_Mortising_Pt2.htm It's one of the first videos we did, so it's not very clear but take a look around 11:20 on the counter.

With all good wishes,

[ricknwood]

If you make your shoulder cut on the tenon 1/4" inch deep on a 3/4" piece, you will not have to worry about any tear out or inconsistence edges on the mortise. The offset will cover any mistakes. I have been building furniture professionally for about 35 years and this is the method I and most have found to avoid your quandary.
Rick Davis
Traveling Academy Instructor

[grayhane]

I have seen your video on using that corner chisel more than a few times but when I seen the cost of the chisel it put a halt on that option. My SS 510 was not much more than the cost of that chisel when I got it so I may be stuck on the straight chisel for the job. On blind tenons, I may just elect to round the tenons off.

[Ron309753]

Why not use the ShopSmith Mortising Package to cut the mortises? The Mortising and Tenon kit is on sale.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/itemfind.htm?item=555810&Submit=Find+Item
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/upgrade/rm_hollowchisel.htm
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS101/SS101_Mortising_Pt1.htm

Or use the Slot Mortising Package
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/itemfind.htm?item=555372&Submit=Find+Item

ShopSmith also sells a corner chisel for squaring routed mortises
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/itemfind.htm?item=518982&Submit=Find+Item

[dickg1]

Grayhane,

One more thing comes to mind especially with all the help you have been getting here:

"Never be afraid to try something new. Remember that a lone amateur built the Ark.
A large group of professionals built the Titanic."
Dave Barry

Dick