Miter set screw stuck

[Ed in Tampa]

Just a regular sheet of paper? And I assume wrap it around enough times to shim it correctly? One last silly question - do you use tape to hold it on?

Thanks,

Tim

Tim
I just tear a stripe of regular paper fold it in a U around the mitre bar and drop the bar into place. I usually use this method on my Cast Iron bandsaw table (using the mitre as my bandsaw fence) so I don't have to worry about the t-nut on the 510/520 mitre bar. No I don't use tape or anything. A single u shaped paper in my slot hold my mitre bar tight then when I give a twist of the tightening screw the bar is locked solid. I tear the extra paper even with the table top and I'm off to work. My screw doesn't get stuck because I don't have to turn it very deep because the paper takes up so much extra space.

I imagine if you wanted you could use a wrap or two of masking tape and accomplish the same thing. I would use the blue tape less glue residue.
Ed
Ed

[charlese]

Sorry to get onto this thread so late, but to get back to the issue of "screw sticking and can't loosen it" - - if the bar will come out of the slot, just insert a large screw driver or two into the slot to spread the bar, then turn out the screw with an allen wrench or if necessary with a vise grip and small wood blocks. Don't have a good fix for a jammed bar! Sorry!

[timster68]

Tim
I just tear a stripe of regular paper fold it in a U around the mitre bar and drop the bar into place. I usually use this method on my Cast Iron bandsaw table (using the mitre as my bandsaw fence) so I don't have to worry about the t-nut on the 510/520 mitre bar. No I don't use tape or anything. A single u shaped paper in my slot hold my mitre bar tight then when I give a twist of the tightening screw the bar is locked solid. I tear the extra paper even with the table top and I'm off to work. My screw doesn't get stuck because I don't have to turn it very deep because the paper takes up so much extra space.

I imagine if you wanted you could use a wrap or two of masking tape and accomplish the same thing. I would use the blue tape less glue residue.
Ed
Ed


Thanks, I'll give that a shot.

[allsas]

Taper screw was acting up and had been lubricated wth wax but it still was very difficult to loosen (two setups ago). Then, it was lubricated with Graphite, now its rounding the edges on the 5/32 hex key stock, counter clockwise turn.

Questions from postings:

? Will a screw driver on the miter guage taper screw slot help me loosen the taper screw?

? Whats the correct lubrication for the taper screw? Anti Seize Compound, wax, graphite. ...

? Is the taper screw directional, one side should go in first? How can you tell which side?


I'll try, soaking in penetrating oil. wedge pressure in the slot, and a good allen wrench.

The last crank on the taper screw was NEEDED to hold the miter guage in one place. It held for the horizontal boring operation, but stripped the hex wrench when the boring was done and I wanted to go back to disk sanding.

[SDSSmith]

Taper screw was acting up and had been lubricated wth wax but it still was very difficult to loosen (two setups ago). Then, it was lubricated with Graphite, now its rounding the edges on the 5/32 hex key stock, counter clockwise turn.

Questions from postings:

? Will a screw driver on the miter guage taper screw slot help me loosen the taper screw?

? Whats the correct lubrication for the taper screw? Anti Seize Compound, wax, graphite. ...

? Is the taper screw directional, one side should go in first? How can you tell which side?


I'll try, soaking in penetrating oil. wedge pressure in the slot, and a good allen wrench.

The last crank on the taper screw was NEEDED to hold the miter guage in one place. It held for the horizontal boring operation, but stripped the hex wrench when the boring was done and I wanted to go back to disk sanding.The tapered screw is directional, you should be able to see the taper. Small side goes into the top of the miter bar. You can use paper wrapped around the miter bar so you don't have to crank down so hard on that tapered screw to lock the miter gauge. I suspect now you have experinced some galling of the threads. When you get the screw out I would clean it up and re-lubricate it.

[beeg]

You can grind down the 5/32 allen wrench to where the rounded part is gone.

[allsas]

Soaking the Screw (http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpost.htm?p=76119&postcount=28), using a new Allen wrench, a #4 extractor, and attempts to drill the tapered screw did not work.

In desparation, I found a large punch that would fit under the miter guage handle, set against the miter bar, oiled the miter slot, and started driving. The bar started moving, but the bar rose out of the miter track before the T-slot washer had cleared the table. Caution: too much and the bar will mushroom and the holes for the screws that hold handle on the bar will be deformed. There was enough room to get the T-slot washer to clear the rear rail assemebly and the miter guage was free of the table.

The tapers screw would not turn out even if it was not under compression of the miter slot, I tried spreading the slot with large screw drivers. I was able to back out the screw a turn or so but not enough to get it out of the bar. The allen wrench continued to rotate in the socket. I noticed that the tapered screw was split and the screw drivers had widened the slot so that the smallest piece of the broken tapered screw fell out. The remaining two pieces were removed by exploiting the extra space provided by the screw drivers wedged into the slot. The method was to worry the remaining pieces until they elected to drop out.
10604

Question is when did the tapered screw split? It must have been intact when it was removed for the wax and the graphite treatments. It may have broken when the extractor was applied. The cracked tapered screw may have allowed the allen wrench to slip or made it difficult to tighten.

Anyway. Its out and waiting for parts, damage check, and repair. It would have been a work stopper for someone with a lone ShopSmith.