Floating Table

[berry]

When I attached the floating table to the left side of my main table and then try to lower it (I'm trying to use a 8" stacked dado head cutter) the floating table runs into the head stock. The profile of the main table is quite different from the floating tables.

Have any of you 'ground' away some of the floating table to enble it to be lowered more? What tools did you use? I don't have a real grinder but I was thinking of using my recipricating saw with a metal cutting blade?

I understand I can mount the floating table on the right side of the machine but I prefer to work with the fence to my right.

I look forward to your ideas and suggestions.

[charlese]

Berry - don't grind the table! I too prefer the left hand fence position. BUT - Just went out to the shop and set up my 7" wobble dado with a floating table to the immediate left (on top of the headstock). I could set the dado to cut a 1/2" depth with the floating table just barely touching the headstock. With your 8" dado you should be able to cut a 1" depth. If you need deeper than that I suggest you try the left hand fence position. (Assuming you are using a Mark V 510 or 520 (mine is a 510)).

Here is another couple of helpers to achieve the proper cutting depth, using the right hand fence position:

One of the best accessories from shopsmith is the 5 foot connector tubes (part No.521942). They have been real helpful in handling jobs where you need to pass over the headstock to achieve the desired cutting depth. This is assuming that your workpiece is long enough to reach accross the headstock.

Another, perhaps better accessory, expecially for dadoes and grooves is the "Table Height Adjustable Stop" (part No. 555937). I know this sounds funky, but for quick and accurate setups, it can't be beat. I even use it in the drill press position for drilling, routing and sanding.

Once again I don't think you should grind away on the aluminum floating table. There are a lot of other alternatives.

Best wishes, Charlese:)