Under all that rust!

[charlese]

Looks like you are ready for whatever woodworking you want to do! Beautiful job! Thanks for sharing. I got so taken up with all the beautiful photos, I got lost for a while. Thanks again for all your efforts to post the "Day 1 until present. :D

[regnar]

Mickyd,

Prepping was done right and painting was done right. What happened to me was I needed to use about 4 rattle cans. I would shake up the rattle can for 5 minutes to get everything mixed up. We have a machine at work that does a great job at this. From can to can the texture would end up different. The color is the same but the texture is what I am not happy with. If I was going to make a show piece I would have bondo all the small holes and ruff areas and then sprayed a solid color. If I didnt want to bondo I would have still used the texture paint but only bought it in larger size and sprayed it with air.


Thanks everyone for the comments, I haven't let the cat out of the bag yet but you should see how the band saw and belt sander are turning out.

[mickyd]

I think I might shoot an email out to rustoleum and ask them for thier comments on the can to can texture difference you experienced. I am real picky when it comes to cosmetics and maybe they have some advise. (i.e. ensure same lot #, warm cans slightly etc.) I'll keep you posted.

Update. Just called them. The gal I spoke to didn't have a lot to offer other than try to use the same batch # (on bottom of can). All other variables, within reason, shouldn't have any effect.

Maybe I'll call back again before I paint to get application specialist #2's opinion.

[judaspre1982]

Using Rustoleum Hammered Finish paint will not give you a smooth finish , it will leave a dimpled effect. As someone else stated in another thread the hammered finish will show up more the heavier the coat is applied. It is the nature of the beast. If you are looking for a smooth finish, then Hammered Finish is not the product to use. I like the hammered look personally and have been very pleased with the performance of the product.-------Dave

[etc92guy]

Hammered will give the ultimate protection since it's formulated for damaged metal repair and is like a epoxy type finish, but it is very finicky. I talked with Bill Mayo about the inconsistenticy(sp?) and he has the same trouble that I have, the texture ends up different. Bill used spray cans to paint the SS parts. I have been using quart cans and rolling it on primed MDF for garage cabinets/bench. I want the dimpling so the cabinets look like metal. That the paint achieves. But even with putting on the recommended two coats, the panels are not even in dimpling. I have rolled with a short nap trim roller for smooth surfaces and a foam roller for smooth surfaces and have the same issue. You can see my issues below on the left panel to the left of the handle and on the right panel near the bottom. And there are many more that don't show.:o

One thing I do remember reading in my research is this stuff has a 5 minute flash point, but I don't remember the application. And it is thick. Have a can in front of me. Thin only with xylol, 1 1/2 - 2 pints/gallon for air spray. The can sez for airless, thinning is not required. I used two coats of Rust-oleum Latex Aluminum Primer. One cabinet is going through its 3rd winter in a unheated garage and there are no issues whatsoever. But writing this leads me to my next effort that I hadn't thought of, using a Wagner Power Sprayer. C'mon summer!!!!

Hope this helps. I think your thread is great and will continue to follow it for the electrolosis and hammered paint info.
3380

[nuhobby]

Hi,

Somewhere way back on www.ssug.org, there was reference to using the spray Hammered cans. The fellow talked about spraying on a fairly light coat and then spraying again while the first coat was still tacky. This would consistently produce enough thickness to 'dimple'. That's what I have done and I've been happy enough, but I believe I'm not as finicky as some for the machine's appearance.