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Gene Howe
01-20-2009, 10:00 AM
I just grabbed this off another forum. I hope it's OK cuz it's pretty funny.

Tools Explained

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so
that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

WIRE WHEEL:
Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, ‘Oh sh—‘

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.

SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major
refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the
outside edge.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.

UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.

DAMN-IT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling ‘DAMN-IT’ at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need

weelildaddy
01-20-2009, 10:14 AM
Just made my day. We all need this kind of humor once in a while but the bad part is that it's all true.

Arno

dlbristol
01-20-2009, 03:17 PM
I knew it, I have been using these tools correctly for years!!

Ed in Tampa
01-20-2009, 03:30 PM
Been there! Done it! Got the t-shirt!

Funny thing is this was also true a 100 years ago and probably in many case long before that. We talk of progress but we still use phillip head screws that strip, and we still have engineers that carefully place the most delicate assembly right next to the part that most often needs replacement and most likely results in the destruction of the delicate assembly to replace it.

The only thing forgotten from the list was the "I almost got it" tool that allows you to almost accomplish what your trying to do. Love that tool!

nuhobby
01-20-2009, 05:50 PM
And the Mark V -- with headstock accidentally not tightened -- can be used like those auto-body repair hammers. The huge weight that slides along a tube and smacks the end....

a1gutterman
01-21-2009, 02:00 AM
I can knot quit laughing!!! I resemble sooo many of those remarks!!!
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/images/smilies2/lmao.gif http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/images/smilies2/killingme.gif http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/images/smilies2/rotflmao1.gif

Thanks for that, pkni!

hoagie
01-21-2009, 01:25 PM
And the Mark V -- with headstock accidentally not tightened -- can be used like those auto-body repair hammers. The huge weight that slides along a tube and smacks the end....

Been there. Done that. Cost me a table saw insert and the time required to re-align everything again.

Ron309753
01-21-2009, 02:13 PM
ROUTER: A tool based on the Tasmanian Devil. Once it's spinning it's out of control.