PTWFE Chapter Table saw Basic Cuts CH2

[reible]

Hi,

This weeks reading is at:
http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/tblsaw_basiccuts/index.htm

You can find other threads related to reading through the on line version of the PTWFE at:
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=2985
(initial ideas)
and at:
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=2997
(the first chapter)

I'm a little behind this week so I haven't had time to do my reading... but I will. How are YOU doing on your reading?

Ed

[reible]

The read didn't take all that long. Made myself an ice tea, checked my email and even talked with the wife for a bit and did the reading and it is a half hour later.

I wanted to point out that if you are having problems with the images being to small you can click to enlarge them.

There is a lot of good stuff in this chapter so I hope we see some comments, questions and discussions.

Ed

[dusty]

This statement, copied from PTWFE, should draw some worthwhile discussion.

When properly aligned, the rip fence automatically squares itself with the main spindle-parallel to the saw blade.

With regard to the following quote: They can also be mounted on both at the same time.

The extension table can be mounted in either the base mount or the power mount to give you extra support where you need it.

The safety rules all deserve special attention. I have seen a couple posts on other forums recently from persons who now wish they had paid proper attention.

I violate this one every time I make a ZCI.

Make all adjustments with the blade stopped, with the one exception of changing the speed. Never try to change the configuration of the table or the power plant before the machine has stopped.

Do it carefully and slowly. Do not do it without securing the ZCI in the cutout first.

This can be debated. It really depends on how one augments the Shopsmith with additional equipment (infeed and outfeed tables).

Do not rip large sheets of plywood or similar materials by yourself. Get at least one helper.

[reible]

I was just reading your comments and thinking we have had some discussions on a few of these in the past. Some other comments are within the quote.

This statement, copied from PTWFE, should draw some worthwhile discussion.

When properly aligned, the rip fence automatically squares itself with the main spindle-parallel to the saw blade.

I have found this to be true. I have however seen a lot of posts with people having to measure each and every change... I wish I knew why this seems to happen to people as it sure has to cause some frustration and excess time used for other then woodworking.

The only issue I've had was with the 510 fence when it needed to span the main table and either the floating or extension table. I never resolved issue but moved on to a 520 upgrade.

To bad we couldn't have had a sawdust session on this issue so we all could enjoy the correct alignment.

With regard to the following quote: They can also be mounted on both at the same time.

The extension table can be mounted in either the base mount or the power mount to give you extra support where you need it.

The safety rules all deserve special attention. I have seen a couple posts on other forums recently from persons who now wish they had paid proper attention.

I violate this one every time I make a ZCI.

I find that this is the only way to do the ZCI, in fact I really don't see much of another solution. The shopsmith instructions even tell you to do it this way. So no foul there.

I should also like to point out that it is darn hard to find the correct thickness material these days... the materials are often thinner then what is needed. Keep this in mind when you are out shopping for material.

Make all adjustments with the blade stopped, with the one exception of changing the speed. Never try to change the configuration of the table or the power plant before the machine has stopped.

Do it carefully and slowly. Do not do it without securing the ZCI in the cutout first.

This can be debated. It really depends on how one augments the Shopsmith with additional equipment (infeed and outfeed tables).

Do not rip large sheets of plywood or similar materials by yourself. Get at least one helper.

Having a bad back and getting older has solved this issue for me. I have no desire to do large sheet goods even with a helper on the shopsmith. This maybe one of those issues of "can it be done" vs "should it be done".

I also noted that they have a table missing (2-1 Table saw speed chart) if anyone needs that let me know and I will make one up.

Shown in Figure 2-17 is the "waste" being marked with a large X. I was taught and still use a small w right at the saw line. Everyone to his own method here but if the waste is not really waste why mark it up like that. I reserve the X for parts that have loose knots, pitch pocket, and the like as they are going to be real waste. When I clean up at the end of the day it is simple what goes in the scrap bucket and what is trash.

Ed

[dcottrill]

Reading the safety tips through a couple of times a year is a good exercise for all woodworker's to do. It reminds me to be safe.

The five point check is a good one to remember as well. I have made a cut only to find out that my table has moved.

Dan

[a1gutterman]

Oakay, got this one under my belt. :)

[charlese]

This reference refers to the section of this chapter titled "Blade Projection".

Please note this section calls for a saw blade projection of only 1/4" to 3/8" above the surface of the board being cut. I have always been a believer in this set up, but have read many contrasting opinions of this low blade projection. One of the opposing views came from a blade manufacturer.

Here's the reasons I subscribe to the low blade projection operation: I believe it is much safer than a higher projection. A lower angle of tooth exit from the bottom of the wood will limit tear-out. At the lower angle of attack, each tooth will have less wood to cut as the piece is fed through the saw, causing less strain on each tooth and prolonging the sharpness of the blade.

I would like to read other's opinions.

[a1gutterman]

This reference refers to the section of this chapter titled "Blade Projection".

Please note this section calls for a saw blade projection of only 1/4" to 3/8" above the surface of the board being cut. I have always been a believer in this set up, but have read many contrasting opinions of this low blade projection. One of the opposing views came from a blade manufacturer.

Here's the reasons I subscribe to the low blade projection operation: I believe it is much safer than a higher projection. A lower angle of tooth exit from the bottom of the wood will limit tear-out. At the lower angle of attack, each tooth will have less wood to cut as the piece is fed through the saw, causing less strain on each tooth and prolonging the sharpness of the blade.

I would like to read other's opinions.I was taught the same thing, Chuck. In another thread discussing this, I was one of the few, as I recall, that subscribed to this procedure. I almost always adjust the blade to this "proper" projection. There are occasions when I adjust the blade to have the maximum projection, but usually that happens with my circular saw, and for the reason that I am knot cutting all the way through, and want/need a "square" blade cut on the end of my cut. This usually occurs when I am meeting that cut in the middle of a piece of plywood with another such cut.