How to Adjust for Drift on the Bandsaw

[cincinnati10]

I have the original bandsaw with cast iron table. There is no fence system for this table. I am making a fence to adapt to the table. How do I measure drift and compensate for it?

Has anyone adapted a fence to their saw?

I have a spare Incra Jig that I want to mount on the bandsaw so I can resaw in 1/32" increments for veneer thickness. Has anyone done this? If so, how did you design and mount the fence/jig?

[dusty]

I have the original bandsaw with cast iron table. There is no fence system for this table. I am making a fence to adapt to the table. How do I measure drift and compensate for it?

Has anyone adapted a fence to their saw?

I have a spare Incra Jig that I want to mount on the bandsaw so I can resaw in 1/32" increments for veneer thickness. Has anyone done this? If so, how did you design and mount the fence/jig?
I'm going to make an attempt at this. It is simple to do; not so simple to explain without being able to point.

Set your blade saw up with a blade suitable for resawing. Use no fences to start with. Have a straight edge suitable for use as a fence available and clamps for securing it to the table.

Mark a straight line the length of a piece of wood that is about 24" long.

Cut along this line (freehand) trying very hard to follow the line closely at all times. This will require that you move the end of the stock either left or right to follow the line (compensate for drift).

After cutting about half way - stop cutting. DO NOT MOVE the board being cut. Clamp that straight edge to the table as though it had been the rip fence. DO NOT alter the position of the stock you have just ripped.

What you now have is the cut line (drift line) for the blade that you currently have mounted on the bandsaw.

This procedure needs to be done each time you prepare to rip using a blade for which you do not know the characteristic drift. It is also my opinion that if you change blade tension you also need to verify drift.

Having said all of this, you need to consider building a fence suitable for resawing which means a fence "as tall" as the stock being resawn.

There is a recent thread, which I can not locate, that discusses a resaw fence that is available. The Kreg Fence for the bandsaw also does what you need.

Found it - http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=1890&highlight=bandsaw

[8iowa]

cinci:

My bandsaw has been used for resawing ever since it was purchased back in '83. It originally had the cast iron table of course, and I made a plywood extension for the miter gauge and used this successfully as a fence.

Compensate for drift by selecting a piece of wood approximately 3" x 24" x 3/4" and drawing a line down the middle parallel with the sides.

Then carefully, by hand, saw down the line, 1/2 way down the board. Turn off the bandsaw and carefully clamp it in place without moving it. You will notice that it is not parallel to the slots. Move your miter gauge "fence" up to the board and tighten it at that angle. You can now resaw straight and true.

Best results are obtained with the 1/2" or 5/8" wide blade. I have a new Woodslicer blade, form Highland Woodworking that really gives great cuts.

[reible]

I don't have a shopsmith band saw however I second the Highland blade. I got it a couple of years ago and it is great. If you want to do some extra reading check out:
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=19

In fact I would say it is required reading but that is just my opinion.

Ed

[Gene Howe]

In fact I would say it is required reading but that is just my opinion.

Ed

Ditto! Probably the best set up explanation I've seen Good on you, Highland.

[otee453]

single point resaw fence.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/f57/resaw-fence-bandsaw-17688/

I'll go take some pics of mine I built, with closeups of how I mounted to the cast iron table of the Bandsaw

[charlese]

otee453 showed us his - now I'll show mine.

I know the fence adjustment is a much used method, but it doesn't work for me as the blade may drift a little in both directions, depending on the grain. I use a SS 5/8" skip tooth blade.

I draw lines like 8iowa and Dusty described - then clamp the jig to the fence and simply follow the line. Works every time - no adjustments other than depth.

Also many folks use the single point fence, Rockler even sells one. Here's mine:
3332

3333

[otee453]

oops, sorry, I should've noted that the link I provided isn't mine, it was just the first pic I found on a google search.

I took pix of mine with the cell phone camera a bit ago. I will up load them tomarrow when I'm in the office (my home PC doesn't have the software to easily retrieve cell phone pix).

Sorry for the misunderstanding, but I think the idea has been presented.