mid-'50s shopsmith disassembling and cleaning -- help

[bucksaw]

Let's be very explicit here:

The drive shaft bearings are ???? ?? ?? ????
The single quill bearing is ???? ?? ?? ????
The control/idler shaft bearing is ???? ?? ?? ????
The Motor bearings are ???? ?? ?? ????

We have been throwing part numbers around and I for one am NOT at this point sure which is which.
Industry standard numbers (NTN uses these I believe)
All bearings radial clearance should be standard (C2-C3) with exception of the single bearing quill where a C1 bearing is desirable if available.
The drive shaft bearings are 6205 ZZ
The quill bearing is 6202 ZZ 5/8" (C1 if available for a single quill)
The control/idler shaft bearing is >>>> Water pump shaft...shaft and bearing are one and is un-repairable by the average joe.
The Motor bearings are:
AO Smith 3/4 is 6203 ZZ
GE 3/4 is 6203 ZZ Fafnir Numbers:
The drive shaft bearings are 205KDD
The single quill bearing is 202KDD5
The control/idler shaft bearing is >>>> Water pump shaft...shaft and bearing are one and is un-repairable by the average joe.
The Motor bearings are:
AO Smith 3/4 is 203KDD
GE 3/4 is 203KDD Any corrections here.:)

[JPG40504]

Double check fafnir drive bearing???:confused:

P.S. Dave corrected fafnir drive shaft bearing to 205KDD on the other post which was a copy of this post.

[tdubnik]

Industry standard numbers (NTN uses these I believe)
The drive shaft bearings are 6205 ZZ
The single quill bearing is 6202 ZZ 5/8"
The control/idler shaft bearing is >>>> Water pump shaft...shaft and bearing are one and is un-repairable by the average joe.
The Motor bearings are:
AO Smith 3/4 is 6203 ZZ
GE 3/4 is 6203 ZZ Fafnir Numbers:
The drive shaft bearings are 202KDD
The single quill bearing is 202KDD5
The control/idler shaft bearing is >>>> Water pump shaft...shaft and bearing are one and is un-repairable by the average joe.
The Motor bearings are:
AO Smith 3/4 is 203KDD
GE 3/4 is 203KDD Any corrections here.:)

The SKF Part numbers would be:
Drive Shaft: 6205 2Z
Single Quill: 6202 2Z ??? (SKF uses special feature numbers to designate non-standard shaft size and I don't remember what it is)
AO Smith 3/4: 6203 2Z
GE 3/4 : 6203 2Z

[edward]

Bill's point, as I understand it, is that a C1 bearing compensates for a problem with the single-bearing quills. You can buy a double-bearing quill with C3 bearings and it'll work famously. But single-bearing quills have a drift (right word?) that makes them less precise, which the C1 corrects because it is beyond the standard.

For me it boils down to $$ (I bought an old SS and fixed her up because I can't afford anythign else) and time (I'm sick of waiting to use this thing). Maybe I'll get the $10 bearing, and if I become dissatisfied, give Bill a call.

Sorry I'm thinking out loud here. After almost 200 posts, I've grown oddly familiar with this thread.

[JPG40504]

Bill's point, as I understand it, is that a C1 bearing compensates for a problem with the single-bearing quills. You can buy a double-bearing quill with C3 bearings and it'll work famously. But single-bearing quills have a drift (right word?) that makes them less precise, which the C1 corrects because it is beyond the standard.

For me it boils down to $$ (I bought an old SS and fixed her up because I can't afford anythign else) and time (I'm sick of waiting to use this thing). Maybe I'll get the $10 bearing, and if I become dissatisfied, give Bill a call.

Sorry I'm thinking out loud here. After almost 200 posts, I've grown oddly familiar with this thread.

As has already been pointed out, YOU CREATED A GIANT! YOUR thinking makes sense to me. Hope the C3 works out for you! At least you will have prior replacement experience IF you must replace it soon.:cool:

[bucksaw]

Your upper left refers to the entire picture, my upper left was referring to the relay. Is this 'upper left' now?
3588
Sorry about focus, best I could taking pix of your pix off lcd screen.

This screw was put there for a reason. I assume it is to hold the RELAY COVER on(not cover it up/insulate it). Try taking the screw loose and see if the relay innards are suddenly accessable. Look for whatever returns the movable contacts back to OPEN position. My thinking is to try and increase the spring tension so as to MAYBE solve the 'clicking' described elsewhere.

BTW see post #119!

P.S. changed 'closed' to 'OPEN'.

I played around with my old relay tonight. I cut off a very short piece of the spring that sets the tension in the relay and re-attached it. Relay works in all positions now with no chatter. Looks like if your careful a relay that chatters during run can be fixed. I imagine it would be possible to buy a new spring at your local Ace Hardware. I'm leaving the old relay on the motor and keeping the new one as a spare.

[JPG40504]

:confused: I am curious if the spring was an extension or compression spring? I am thinking 'extension'. You INCREASED the tension.

[bucksaw]

:confused: I am curious if the spring was an extension or compression spring? I am thinking 'extension'. You INCREASED the tension.

Extension. By cutting off a short piece I was increasing the tension. If I get around to it I'll take a picture of the innards.