replace top belt [Archive] - Shopsmith Forums

billbrit

03-27-2009, 07:23 PM

I have a Shopsmith mark V. It is used, and come with new belts. The top belt is really bad, and I want to replace it. I have the parts breakdown, but need the procedure for removing the shaft to replace the belt. The machine hasn't been taken apart and everything is hard to remove. Don't want to damage anything so I want to be sure I'm not forcing anything

HELP
Bill

dusty

03-27-2009, 07:43 PM

I have a Shopsmith mark V. It is used, and come with new belts. The top belt is really bad, and I want to replace it. I have the parts breakdown, but need the procedure for removing the shaft to replace the belt. The machine hasn't been taken apart and everything is hard to remove. Don't want to damage anything so I want to be sure I'm not forcing anything

HELP
Bill
Welcome to the forum. This is a good place to be when you need help with anything Shopsmith and a lot more.

Before you do something that you might regret, I suggest that you spend some time reviewing the following videos.

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS121/SS121_Index.htm

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS122/SS122_Index.htm

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS123/SS123_Index.htm

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS124/SS124_Index.htm

The third one (#23) has the specific information that you are asking about but I suggest you review them all. There are a bunch more at the same location. You might want to browse around a bit.

etc92guy

03-27-2009, 08:50 PM

The top belt is the worst. If the drive shaft won't come out with Nick's method you need to insert a piece of rebar into the splined coupling and drive the bee-jesus out of it until the shaft pops out the other end. Try and size the rebar so it doesn't mess up the splines in the nylon coupling. But sometimes, something has to be sacrificed.

billmayo

03-27-2009, 11:12 PM

The top belt is the worst. If the drive shaft won't come out with Nick's method you need to insert a piece of rebar into the splined coupling and drive the bee-jesus out of it until the shaft pops out the other end. Try and size the rebar so it doesn't mess up the splines in the nylon coupling. But sometimes, something has to be sacrificed.

I ground the splines(raised area) off for 6" on an 18" piece of 1/2" rebar that I have used for many years now. I am finding that spraying KROIL into each side of the back headstock bearing housing for the Drive Sleeve Assembly really helps clean the crud (I like Nick's word) out so the drive sleeve assembly is easy to remove now. Be sure to remove the retainer ring holding the drive sleeve assembly. It can be covered in crud and not seen. I use a small flat blade screwdriver sliding around the outside of the retaining ring until I can find the lip of the retaining ring. With the screwdriver blade under the lip, I pry the retaining ring out and up and slowly unwind it from the housing.

derekdarling

10-01-2010, 10:09 AM

Is this guy spamming us? The points he raises are becoming off-topic, and are sales pitches.

heathicus

10-01-2010, 12:59 PM

Is this guy spamming us? The points he raises are becoming off-topic, and are sales pitches. Looks like it. I don't know if his account was hijacked by a spammer, or if his first 6 posts were a ruse to establish an "identity" so his subsequent spam would get unnoticed for a while. But his last 2 posts have definitely been spam.

dusty

10-01-2010, 01:02 PM

Looks like it. I don't know if his account was hijacked by a spammer, or if his first 6 posts were a ruse to establish an "identity" so his subsequent spam would get unnoticed for a while. But his last 2 posts have definitely been spam.I called his existence to the attention of the administrator yesterday. It will be taken care of, I am sure.

derekdarling

10-02-2010, 01:05 AM

Dusty, thanks for that. This site should be only for crazy people who do woodwork, not nutsy people who want to sell us stuff... like I could afford anything new anyway! That's why I got my SS's second (third? fourth?) hand and have to refurbish them to use them.

I had to make seven cuts in short wood the other day. I got out my backsaw, spent an hour sharpening and setting it, then cut the pieces like they were butter. My nieghbour must have thought I was nuts sitting there beside the SS setup as a table saw. Machines are great, but a sharp and tuned saw in the hand... there's just something about that feeling.

Derek in Surrey, BC