tight parts

[farley]

just got and cleaning up my SS bargain.

the speed dial was very hard to turn, I saw the video on sawdust sessions(if that's the right name), so I cleaned and oiled and silicone sprayed all. It is much better and may need it done more than the 4 times. My question:

Does the Dial itself need any type of lubrication?

The lock for the head stock.

I brushed and spayed that, very hard still to get to stop the stock and very hard to loosen.
My question. Should I see those cut off washers that touch the tubes on the inside loose and floating when I loosen the handle of the lock on the stock?

sorry for not using the correct terms, hope someone can figure out what I am saying.

TIA
Farley

[beeg]

Is this the sawdust session you viewed?

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS117/SS117_Index.htm.

As far as the headstock locks, they MAY need replacing?

[charlese]

There are several reasons why the speed dial is hard to turn. Hopefully you didn't try to turn it while the machine is not running. The speed dial should turn easier when increasing speed. This is because the spring on the outside of the motor shaft helps move the lower sheaves closer. When decreasing speed you must oppose this spring force. However this resistance should not be great.

If the speed dial is turned to a slower speed then the machine is not turning, you can break or severely damage the quadrant or the ind of the idler shaft.

Although I am an advocate of silicone spray, I cannot recommend it for use in the speed control assembly. Other than clean, the outside of the unit, the speed control handle or the assembly below it does not need lubrication.

Try this - take off your belt cover, exposing your motor shaft and spring. With your hands, pull the outer sheave out compressing the spring. This shaft gets dirty and does need lubrication every 10 hours of running time or so. Squirt 10 wt oil (non-detergent) on the shaft and into the hole that is hidden beneath the first few coils of the spring. After you get the sheave sliding easily and compressing the spring, run the seed control up to high and check that the belt is almost at the outside of the lower two sheaves. Then turn on the machine and turn the speed control to lower speed again. If it is still hard to turn - holler!!!!

Leave the silicone spray and WD-40 on the shelf!!!!!

Head stock lock:
The cut off washers you see are most likely the wedge locks. They should not float loose, if I get what you mean. They should just be removed from the way tubes. Powdered graphite is the correct lubricant to apply to the wedge locks, so they slide in their holes in the side of the headstock case. If your wedges have turned over they will no longer hold and must be turned so they tighten on the way tubes on their sloped surface.

[farley]

thanks guys

I have view this session:
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS111/SS111_Index.htm

and the other one that beeg mentioned.
.
the first one mentioned more about cleanning the machine and I think thats where I am at. I don't want to pull the speed control if not necessary.

I will try more cleaning and using a thought by charlese tomorrrow.

as for the headstock locks, perhaps taking the headstock off and checking it out might be a good idea.

[thainglo]

Farley - I have a carriage assembly that I am working on now where the wedge is "frozen" onto the threaded rod. This prevented the wedge from shifting in and out of its casing to tighten around the tube and lock the carriage in place. You should be able to turn the wedge locks by hand on the rod without difficulty. With some gentle persuasion and silicon spray, I was able to work it a little loose, but not 100% without it binding.

Next step is to try applying lots of colorful language! :D

[dusty]

thanks guys

I have view this session:
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS111/SS111_Index.htm

and the other one that beeg mentioned.
.
the first one mentioned more about cleanning the machine and I think thats where I am at. I don't want to pull the speed control if not necessary.

I will try more cleaning and using a thought by charlese tomorrrow.

as for the headstock locks, perhaps taking the headstock off and checking it out might be a good idea.

You might want to think about this as an approach to working on the wedge locks.

1. Unplug the Mark V.

2. Locate the Headstock about center on the way tubes and lock it place. Slide the carriage to the left as far as it will go and lock it in place.

3. Reach inside and disconnect the power connections from the switch.

4. Remove the drive belt following the procedures given elsewhere in the manual or the sawdust sessions.

5. Drop the motor pan and let it rest on the tubes.

6. Slowly lift the Mark V. into the drill press mode. Take care that the wires to the motor are free from the headstock. There is a plastic clip up inside the headstock that holds these wires in a position that prevents them from getting entangle with the mechanics of the headstock.

In this position now you can readily see the wedge locks and the threaded rod.

CAUTION: If you are going to unlock the headstock lock to work on the wedges or the threaded rod, recheck to make certain the carriage is locked.

If you are unsure that the carriage locks will hold the additional weight of the headstock - this can all be done with the carriage and headstock both moved all the way to the right before lifting to the drill press mode. I find this not to be the ideal position for working inside the headstock.

This is also an ideal position for cleaning and lubrication of the headstock.

While the motor is sitting there on the bench tubes, I blow it out. This is best done with the motor running but you will have to have a separate connection to AC power for the motor as you have disconnected from the switch. I have made a short extension cord just for this purpose. When I do this, I plug the motor (via that special extension cord) into an outlet strip that has a switch.

[farley]

reporting back on my tights parts

all is sliding smooth now. the headstoack lock needed to be taken off the tubes and loosen up.

thanks for the advise