View Full Version : Mark VII Retrofit
Does anyone know if the Mark 7 carriage, table and tie bar match the Mark V?
I've got a bead on a Mark VII that I've not seen yet, but the price is fair (for California standards $150) and would like to do some retrofitting with it.
Actually I am trying to get a base, tie bar, carriage and table so that I can tie it to the wall with my OPR. I have a whole machine taking up valuable space AND cannot use without a PITA dissemble and placement of parts, so.......mount the OPR permanently to the wall and reclaim my main machine!
BUT I would like to know if a Mark VII is the same as a Mark 5 in all the above respects. Shopsmith sight says that the headstock is interchangeable, so that means the tie bar is, and I suppose the carriage is as well, which may mean the table too will fit.
Did I answer my own question or did I leave out some facts? My wife knows I am crazy since I already have a 10ER (slow restoration process), a Mark 2, and .....well, you guys know......
TIA
JPG40504
06-19-2009, 04:51 PM
See #12 http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=3504&page=2&highlight=vii
JPG, again, you come through like a champ. You also saved me $150 and a haranguing from Wife #1. Thanks.
The OPR table fits in slots made for the 500 or the 510.
I know, I know, I could drill new holes for this beast's table, but I am a bit miffed about retrofitting at the moment. I bought this OPR while on sale, got it, set it up, and the first thing SS wants me to do is drill holes in it! For a sliding table that they want me to build. I don't mind building the table but having me drill holes in a new table purchased just galls me a bit. I mean, right out of the box, literally, they want me to drill holes!
Anyway, I'll get over myself eventually, but in the meantime I'll plod along.
Thanks again.
nuhobby
06-20-2009, 08:51 AM
JPG, again, you come through like a champ. You also saved me $150 and a haranguing from Wife #1. Thanks.
The OPR table fits in slots made for the 500 or the 510.
I know, I know, I could drill new holes for this beast's table, but I am a bit miffed about retrofitting at the moment. I bought this OPR while on sale, got it, set it up, and the first thing SS wants me to do is drill holes in it! For a sliding table that they want me to build. I don't mind building the table but having me drill holes in a new table purchased just galls me a bit. I mean, right out of the box, literally, they want me to drill holes!
Anyway, I'll get over myself eventually, but in the meantime I'll plod along.
Thanks again.
Hi,
What's the deal on drilling a new OPR Table? Is it for installing the table on the Mark V, or is it just for adding accessories such as different fences, sliding jigs, etc?
I have the new OPR mounted on a Mark V and have not yet drilled it. I could for adding jigs, but my projects to date didn't need those extensive of jigs.
dusty
06-20-2009, 09:19 AM
Hi,
What's the deal on drilling a new OPR Table? Is it for installing the table on the Mark V, or is it just for adding accessories such as different fences, sliding jigs, etc?
I have the new OPR mounted on a Mark V and have not yet drilled it. I could for adding jigs, but my projects to date didn't need those extensive of jigs.
I suspect that this is a throw back to one of the Sawdust Sessions that Nick presented on the OPR. In conjunction with that were a number of postings here on the forum regarding fixturies for use with the OPR - especially the sliding sled that provides XY (I think) mobility of the installed sled.
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS104/SS104_Overarm_Router_2.htm
Dusty, you are right; the reference made by Nick on that Hands On Session was about it.
Chris, I must be doing something wrong with my OPR as I have had to adjust it several times to do the job at hand; front to back to often, whereas when I build the sled AND drill the holes, the current fence will not need adjustment continuously for what I do.
charlese
06-21-2009, 03:33 PM
- cutting/routing slots through the new OPR table is not necessary for many operations. However the shopsmith aluminum fences leave much to be desired. I routed slots to improve the machine's capabilities.
Before routing the slots, I used a longer piece of UHMW Plastic for a fence. I drilled one side of the plastic, screwed it to the table and clamped the other side. Pivoted the fence to adjust it.
After routing the slots, I now have a 3/4" X 4" straight piece of poplar that I use for a fence. NOTHING fancy here! It (the fence) can be installed on it's face or on it's edge. It is VERY easily adjustable.
5095
Here a a couple of photos. As you look at them PLEASE realize the two holes on the inner side of the fence were made in error. If you make these slots - DO NOT MAKE THE HOLES ON THE INNER SIDE OF THE TABLE. This shows the oak filler I have put into the bottom of the counter bore.
5096
I have since inserted oak into the bottom of the slots and cut the rabbets into the oak. This is a lot more firm than the inside of the fiber table. It also covered the hole from the bottom.
With the wood fence, I can now use the fence on either side of the router. The next photos shows a set-up for routing a dado into the center of a shutter rail.
5097
The last photo shows using the same fence with a sliding table to use in horizontal boring.
5098
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Chuck
Lancaster, CA
Chuck,
That is what I was trying to figure out! Thanks for the photos as they speak 10K words. The fence and set up limits the range of possibilities that you have overcome. I've not compared your work around to SS, but it seems to be a superior method, and both mandate one cut into a brand new table! Wonder why SS didn't just do it?
PS: Forum moderator needs to change the thread tittle so that the terminally unimaginative, like me, can find Chuck's work around photos.