Lesson learned

[Bruce]

I built a router table from plans in Shopnotes. It was made entirely from 1/2" plywood. I was skeptical that the top would be stable enough, but used it anyway. It turns out 1/2" isn't stout enough to prevent bowing from the weight of the router. I'm going to try to strengthen it with some plywood braces, but if that doesn't work, I guess I'll re-do the top with 3/4" ply. Any other ideas, besides buying a metal one. :)

[paulmcohen]

Use melamine coated MDF, mine is 3/4" thick with a band of oak to both finish the edge and give additional strength against warping.

I used two Shopsmith miter tracks so I can use my Shopsmith miter guage and other accessories.

123

[Bruce]

Use melamine coated MDF, mine is 3/4" thick with a band of oak to both finish the edge and give additional strength against warping.

I used two Shopsmith miter tracks so I can use my Shopsmith miter guage and other accessories.

Paul,
Thanks. I had thought about melamine but wasn't sure if the particle board would be any stronger. Do you have any other stiffeners on the bottom of the panel, or is the edging enough for the job? What router do you use? I have a P-C 890 series and it seems pretty heavy.

Bruce

[reible]

I built a router table from plans in Shopnotes. It was made entirely from 1/2" plywood. I was skeptical that the top would be stable enough, but used it anyway. It turns out 1/2" isn't stout enough to prevent bowing from the weight of the router. I'm going to try to strengthen it with some plywood braces, but if that doesn't work, I guess I'll re-do the top with 3/4" ply. Any other ideas, besides buying a metal one. :)
Hi,

Which shopnotes table did you make.... I'd like to see what it looks like and just how they went about picking 1/2" plywood for a top... it sounds like a table without an insert???? I don't have all the shopnotes but I have enought that seaching for this would be time consuming.

If you were to attempt to brace the one you have I would get away from plywood and use some cheaper hardwood with the grain aligned to support the top. (Perhaps some 1 x 2 stock would be enough.)

If you do go to 3/4" plywood you really need to use something more like a 13 layer baltic birch and have it laminated on both sides with a hardwood trim on the edges. This is the same type table that "The Router Workshop" guys use on the PBS show. I have one of their tables and one of their tops I got for my own table design. They have stayed flat over the years and I have one 3-1/2 hp router that weights in at over 13 pounds.... (BTW in the later eposides the guys were useing the PC890's)

So if you want to see what I'm talking about go to:
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=RTA--&product=T040

Price in the US is about $80 just for the table top but if you sign up for mailings they have 10% off sales all the time. You can also shop any number of other places for tops of various types and made of various materials...

Another top I own is from Jointech and is 1-1/8" thick melamine, the size I have is not made anymore but they do have a 20" x 32" one for $50 (MT-20):
http://www.jointech.com/routertops.htm

You will also find tables with and with out miter slots, most of the router people I know no longer use the miter slots and have gone to using "sleds". If you are new to router tables and are not sure what I'm talking about here is an example:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16416&filter=28595
These again come in various sizes/shapes/materials and can of couse be homemade as well.

If you do decide to go with a miter slot and want to use your shopsmith miter gauge then make sure you get the slot from shopsmith as theirs does not = most other makers.

Just a few more ideas for you... I think there must be at least 20 different companies who make router tables and even if you chose to make your own it wouldn't hurt to see what others have and what materials they use... off-set or centered, thickness, mounting plates, and well the list goes on.

Ed

[paulmcohen]

Paul,
Thanks. I had thought about melamine but wasn't sure if the particle board would be any stronger. Do you have any other stiffeners on the bottom of the panel, or is the edging enough for the job? What router do you use? I have a P-C 890 series and it seems pretty heavy.

Bruce

I have a DeWalt 3 HP (825 I think) and it is very heavy. I have had this table for over 10 years and no warping. The legs are screwed into the panel from below and as you can see in the picture they are just outside the insert (giving some support). In fact I had to use shorter screws to install the legs otherwise the screws would protrude through the miter track.

[Bruce]

Which shopnotes table did you make.... I'd like to see what it looks like and just how they went about picking 1/2" plywood for a top... it sounds like a table without an insert???? I don't have all the shopnotes but I have enought that seaching for this would be time consuming.

If you were to attempt to brace the one you have I would get away from plywood and use some cheaper hardwood with the grain aligned to support the top. (Perhaps some 1 x 2 stock would be enough.)

Ed,
The plans are from issue #85 dated Jan/Feb 2006. One of the upgrades they show is an aluminum insert, thus once you route out the opening for the plate, it's resting on only 1/4" of plywood. As for the brace, I glued two pieces of the 1/2" plywood face to face and was planning to mount them with the cut edge facing up. I figured that would be pretty strong, even more so than solid hardwood. I'll give it a try and if it's still too flimsy I'll probably purchase a ready made table. I looked at those that you linked to and noticed the opening is not centered in the table. Is that a new arrangement? I don't know why you would want it offset like that.

Bruce

[reible]

Ed,
The plans are from issue #85 dated Jan/Feb 2006. One of the upgrades they show is an aluminum insert, thus once you route out the opening for the plate, it's resting on only 1/4" of plywood. As for the brace, I glued two pieces of the 1/2" plywood face to face and was planning to mount them with the cut edge facing up. I figured that would be pretty strong, even more so than solid hardwood. I'll give it a try and if it's still too flimsy I'll probably purchase a ready made table. I looked at those that you linked to and noticed the opening is not centered in the table. Is that a new arrangement? I don't know why you would want it offset like that.

Bruce
Hi,

Sorry I stopped getting shop notes a few years back so I don't have the project to look at. Did they call for baltic birch plywood and is that what you used? If not that might be a simple thing to do, you can even order it online at rockler.com (63446) is a 1/2" x 24" x 30" for $9.99 + shipping and tax etc.

The problem with the plywood is that every other layer is going the "other" direction and the holding power of screws or glue on end grain...... but it might work and it sure will not hurt to try.

Off set tables have some advantages, especially if you want to use an incra jig or simular product... Another advantage is for people who pop the router out to adjust heights and or change bits, the offset allows for a place to sit the router. There are advantages to each and like I may have said before no one router table will ever be the "best ever" or "ultimate" for everyone and the projects they do. Get something together and start doing some projects and find what you like and don't like... make another top for your table as another project but make it off set next time... try some other materials... look at catalogs or go online and see what else is out there.

Ed

[Bruce]

Ed,
Yes, they suggested Baltic birch, but no one around here carries it as far as I know, so I used Auruco (?). The big "home" stores act like woodworkers don't exist. :( Thanks for all the help and ideas.

Bruce