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navycop
08-23-2009, 09:45 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTil2hkMSyY Jon OLson expert village.

beeg
08-23-2009, 11:10 PM
About 10668 views.

JPG40504
08-23-2009, 11:36 PM
About 10668 views.

Do Not do that! There should NOT be a hole larger than the box!

I hope not too many followed his method!:eek:

a1gutterman
08-24-2009, 01:44 AM
Do Not do that! There should NOT be a hole larger than the box!

I hope not too many followed his method!... The danger here is that debri and/or insulation may find it's way into the light fixture and the heat from the light could ignite that material; however, if you cover the wiring box with a cover that is made for the purpose (something that should be done regardless of the hole size), you will prevent any materials from entering the fixture. The following quote comes from this web page (http://www.bpa.gov/Energy/N/Energy_Tips/weatherization/InsulateCeiling.cfm).


Whether you're using blown, poured, or batt material, the following preparations are important:

Heat-producing fixtures should be isolated from insulation to prevent fire hazards. These include recessed lighting fixtures (those where the light is above the house ceiling line and encased in a metal box or canister), stovepipe or flue exposures. Small motors such as doorbell transformers and ventilating fans are also included.
Insulation must be kept at least 3 inches back from these openings. If you're using blanket or batt insulation, leave a 3-inch space on both sides of the fixtures and frame the openings with wood or metal baffles that extend at least 4 inches above the depth of the insulation (Fig. 3.3 (http://www.bpa.gov/Energy/N/Energy_Tips/weatherization/InsulateCeiling.cfm#)). http://www.bpa.gov/Energy/N/Energy_Tips/weatherization/figures/figure3.3.gif
Wrap flues and chimneys with at least 3 inches of non-combustible insulation which extends at least 4 inches above the level of the finished loose fill or batt insulation. Baffles prevent insulation from sloughing into the openings.
With blown or poured insulation, frame the openings with wood or metal baffles which extend at least 4 inches above the depth of the insulation (Fig. 3.4 (http://www.bpa.gov/Energy/N/Energy_Tips/weatherization/InsulateCeiling.cfm#)). Nail or screw the baffles to ceiling joists so that they will not move during or after insulation has been installed. http://www.bpa.gov/Energy/N/Energy_Tips/weatherization/figures/figure3.4.gif
If you are insulating over the top of a fixture, protect it with a metal box with closed top. Fixtures which are tested and certified by an independent laboratory (UL-rated fixtures of this type will be marked, "Recessed Fixture Type LC") as capable of dissipating heat are an exception to the procedures above. You may safely insulate over and around them.
Make sure all electrical wiring is in good repair. Insulation coming into contact with exposed electrical wires could start a fire.
Don't attempt to pull up or bend any wiring. Protect "knob and tube" wiring in one of the following ways:
1. For wiring which extends across the joint space, cut a piece of batt insulation at least 14½ inches wide and push it underneath. (Fig. 3.5 (http://www.bpa.gov/Energy/N/Energy_Tips/weatherization/InsulateCeiling.cfm#)) Taper blown or poured insulation back from this batt to assure that loose fill doesn't "drift" into contact with the wiring. http://www.bpa.gov/Energy/N/Energy_Tips/weatherization/figures/figure3.5.gif
2. For wiring installed along the sides of the joists, you will need to cut the batt to provide air space around the knob and tube wiring. ( Fig. 3.6 (http://www.bpa.gov/Energy/N/Energy_Tips/weatherization/InsulateCeiling.cfm#).) Be sure to maintain clearance on all sides of the wire for free air circulation. We recommend using batts between the joists on both sides of the space containing the wiring so that loose fill insulation (if used) does not spill over into the knob and tube wiring. Check with your utility for details. http://www.bpa.gov/Energy/N/Energy_Tips/weatherization/figures/figure3.6.gif
3. Have the electrical system inspected by a professional to: (a) verify circuit protection with type "S" fusing or circuit breakers of no more than 15 amperes, and (b) ensure that the existing wiring and overall electrical system is in good operating order.
Then, you may blow or pour in only fiberglass, rockwool, or cellulose insulation directly over the wiring. You may also use unfaced mineral wool batts.

mickyd
08-24-2009, 10:12 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTil2hkMSyY Jon OLson expert village.

Why do you ask? Just curious.

navycop
08-24-2009, 11:25 PM
I think he sounds kind of funny. I just wonder how many of my fellow SS actually sit and watch his info. Like mentioned before he could be giving bum info..

cincinnati
08-25-2009, 09:46 PM
Well, considering I have never seen it before but had to watch it to answer the question. Everyone would have to answer "yes, I have now seen the video"

navycop
08-26-2009, 01:46 AM
Well, considering I have never seen it before but had to watch it to answer the question. Everyone would have to answer "yes, I have now seen the video"
I was just wondering if he was as popular as Nick was. That's why I posted the question. It appears alot of SS owners have not seen him till now.

(I used to live in Youngstown, OH. I really love Kings Island Amusement park.. Remember the T.V. show: WKRP in Cincinnati?)