Mysterious Headstock!

[mickyd]

Guys - here's a picture of the hole cut in .......

To keep Mike happy, here's a picture from the craigslist listing that shows the fully assembled unit. Nothing pretty!
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Matt
Matt - She looks beautiful to me, and I'm not being facetious! She's a diamond in the raw......thanks for posting.

[dlbristol]

I noticed that the pan is held with hex head bolts. I assume they would have to have nuts on them, and they are not original. Is it possible that the modifications to the existing hole and the "new" one are to allow access to the nuts? This is a fun thread!

[thainglo]

I'll pull the motor from the motor pan Saturday and put up some additional pictures. Was planning on doing it tonight, but came home to the new dog leaving a few "surprises" in the bedroom, then got tied up putting together my first 510. Someone mounted the casters on the wrong sides because the kick downs aren't on the same side as the headstock switch and carriage table adjustment dial.

Matt

[thainglo]

Guys - got up early before my flight out this morning and pulled the motor out of the pan. If it was added later, they did a nice job as the SS mountings look - to my untrained eye - untouched and original. However, the power cord and forward / reverse switch appear later addons - the cord is held in by a screw-on retaining ring versus the molded plastic plug and there are some holes drilled behind the switch that appear to have been mistakes (you can see the holes in the first picture).

Open to everyone's thoughts and ideas!
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[robinson46176]

Most interesting... At a quick look it all appears pretty much original. Has the field maybe been rewound? Or was that motor actually reversible? I thought I had always read that it was not. I look forward to the comments of others.
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One note, mostly to some who may want to do modifications... I always cringe when I see loose wires running through unguarded holes. At a minimum some grommets are in order here. Even then I do not like loose wires out in the open between housings. On such a switch installation I would probably have to use a piece of greenfield conduit or even a piece of Liquid-tight etc. with proper connector clamping at the ends even if I had to make it rather long to allow it to bend and enter properly.

[billmayo]

Yes, it is an early Greenie 3/4 HP motor. The headstock I have not seen before so I would guess that it may be one of the very first 53/54 Mark V made before they changed the Quill Feed Assy to the current one. It was a sand cast headstock without the access hole as the holes for the logo cover was nice and round. I find that the access hole must be at least 3" so my hand will fit inside the headstock. Did the control sheave and/or floating sheave have oil holes in them? The early sand cast headstocks did not have them. I am sure the previous owner used what he could find that worked to make the changes.

It is amazing what owners can do with Shopsmith headstocks. I had one that someone cut out the end from the motor pan, cut off the motor shaft part that holds the sheaves and made up a connector to fit the cutoff motor shaft/sheaves and connected it to a 220 VAC 3 HP motor that hung out of the end of the motor pan. The carriage and headstock end was cut to clear the motor. However, quite a bit of vibration was present.

I had to make motor mounts and drill holes to mount the Mark VII motor in the Mark V motor pan after cutting off the dust collector shaft. I used a TPST (6 terminals) for the FWD/REV switch I mount on the motor pan. I have done several of these conversions.

The Mark V motors are all single rotation motors due to government requirements (OSHA?). A motor shop or someone who likes to take chances could dig the start winding and run winding connected end from the motor coil and separate them into 2 leads for the FWD/REV capability. There is a good possibility that you may short or damage the coil to where the motor does not work now. I have done several of the later 1 1/8 HP motors for lathe users that worked but I worked in a motor rewinding shop for several years and have the tools to do this task. You need insulating varnish to coat the motor coil wires when done. Both ends of the start winding is needed to make a FWD/REV motor and you switch the start winding leads to reverse the motor.

BIll