View Full Version : My wish list: a new riving knife for SS saw
bobgroh
10-08-2009, 12:19 AM
I would like to have a riving knife for my SS model 510. Something along the line of the one on the new Delta saw would be great - the kickback pawl's (hope I using the right terms) and the plastic see through saw blade guards are easily removable so you can, if you need to, use just the riving knife itself.
I have taken a look at my existing saw guard and, if I could find one on EBAY with a bunged up plastic piece, I would buy it just to strip off the plastic cover, remove the kickback pawls and cut down the remaining piece - and, zip, you would have a riving knife for non-through cuts.
Maybe SS will come out with something like that - nice accessory.
Heck, a guy can dream.
robinson46176
10-08-2009, 08:41 AM
I must have gotten lost somewhere. :confused:
If it is not a through cut why would you need a riving knife? A non through cut couldn't close behind the blade?
gregf
10-08-2009, 09:21 AM
Riving knifes help prevent kickback.
I have to admit this was news to me until recently.
Here is a page about kickback that looks well done.
http://www.raygirling.com/kickback.htm
Greg
Ed in Tampa
10-08-2009, 10:33 AM
The sharkguard system offers just what Bob is looking for.
The sharkguard offer a upper blade guard riving knife combo that the upper saw guard can be easily removed from.
Check it out. http://www.leestyron.com/shopsmith510.php
kalynzoo
10-08-2009, 12:06 PM
Ed, the Shark Guard looks interesting. I sort of like the dust port, if it would not get in the way or add weight to scratch the wood.
Do you have one?
I currently use the SS upper guard, which seems to do what it is supposed to do, keep my fingers off the blade and prevent kickback.
robinson46176
10-08-2009, 03:06 PM
Those look good but I thought he was wanting something more like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DT30KO
Since he specifically mentioned maybe cutting one down for "non-through" cuts.
-
BTW, I am one of those people that always makes sure that the fence/blade is always a very tiny bit open at the back. You absolutely do not want a pinch point there. Of course you don't want it open to a visible gap either.
"Just right" seems to work OK... ;)
bobgroh
10-08-2009, 03:11 PM
I must have gotten lost somewhere. :confused:
If it is not a through cut why would you need a riving knife? A non through cut couldn't close behind the blade?
No, but you can get the board skewed so it ride's away from the fence or it rides 'up' on the blade. I did some web searching on the subject ('riving knife') and there is a lot out there on the subject. It is one of the hot things right now and is involved in some new safety standards that come into play in the next couple of years. Examples of the new standards include how fast the riving knife can be set, etc, etc.
I am too inexpert at this hobby to give you a good answer but do a Google search and follow up on some of the hits. Interesting stuff. The SS model 505/510/520 already have the essense of a good riving knife setup - just needs to be enhanced.
dusty
10-08-2009, 03:42 PM
No, but you can get the board skewed so it ride's away from the fence or it rides 'up' on the blade. I did some web searching on the subject ('riving knife') and there is a lot out there on the subject. It is one of the hot things right now and is involved in some new safety standards that come into play in the next couple of years. Examples of the new standards include how fast the riving knife can be set, etc, etc.
I am too inexpert at this hobby to give you a good answer but do a Google search and follow up on some of the hits. Interesting stuff. The SS model 505/510/520 already have the essense of a good riving knife setup - just needs to be enhanced.
How does it need to be enhanced?
I have made some minor changes to mine but I would not call them enhancements (not from the safety point of view).