Just can't get it straight

[tango]

So this has been an ongoing problem for me for some time now. I cannot for the life of me get my rip fence aligned to my saw blade. Just the other night I re-engaged this ever-challenging problem of mine, and yet no solution.

I've aligned the rip fence as the manual suggests, I've even tried to re-align the table itself, yet nothing; it's still not aligned. I've done this more than once; in fact I've done this many many times and it always turns out the same. It's only off by 1/16th or so... from what I can tell, but its enough to make a difference.

If anyone else has endured this problem please let me know, of if there is some other alignment I haven't listed here please advise.

[dusty]

So this has been an ongoing problem for me for some time now. I cannot for the life of me get my rip fence aligned to my saw blade. Just the other night I re-engaged this ever-challenging problem of mine, and yet no solution.

I've aligned the rip fence as the manual suggests, I've even tried to re-align the table itself, yet nothing; it's still not aligned. I've done this more than once; in fact I've done this many many times and it always turns out the same. It's only off by 1/16th or so... from what I can tell, but its enough to make a difference.

If anyone else has endured this problem please let me know, of if there is some other alignment I haven't listed here please advise.

This is not an uncommon problem. However, more information is required.

What version of fence are we working with (500,510,520)?

Is the table alignment complete and was that difficult to accomplish? If so, what were the problems?

Has the rip fence been damaged (dropped)? If so, have you verified that it is straight using a quality straight edge?

What direction is the fence off and how much? You said 1/16" (.0625"); what accuracy level are you striving for? You should be able to easily get to within 1/64" (.015").

I have a piece of hardwood that has been milled to fit firmly in the miter track. It sits proud of the table about two inches. I use this to align my fence. I loosen the bolts that secure the fence (back off the alignment set screw if one exists). Slide the fence up against the hardwood bar and clamp it there (both ends). Apply the fence locking mechanism. Tighten the mounting bolts and screw in the set screw to just barely touch (if one exists).

Carefully un-clamp and unlock the fence. It should not move when then clamping pressures are removed.

Footnote: There was an Axiom (or was it a Postulate) that said: Two lines (objects) parallel to the same line are parallel to one another. I think this applies here! Hmmmm. Maybe it was a Theorem?

[dusty]

tango,

Make sure that the front rail is straight. If the rail is bent, even the slightest, it will make alignment very difficult to maintain.

[tango]

This is not an uncommon problem. However, more information is required.

What version of fence are we working with (500,510,520)? 510

Is the table alignment complete and was that difficult to accomplish? If so, what were the problems?

Has the rip fence been damaged (dropped)? If so, have you verified that it is straight using a quality straight edge?

What direction is the fence off and how much? You said 1/16" (.0625"); what accuracy level are you striving for? You should be able to easily get to within 1/64" (.015").

I have a piece of hardwood that has been milled to fit firmly in the miter track. It sits proud of the table about two inches. I use this to align my fence. I loosen the bolts that secure the fence (back off the alignment set screw if one exists). Slide the fence up against the hardwood bar and clamp it there (both ends). Apply the fence locking mechanism. Tighten the mounting bolts and screw in the set screw to just barely touch (if one exists).

Carefully un-clamp and unlock the fence. It should not move when then clamping pressures are removed.

Footnote: There was an Axiom (or was it a Postulate) that said: Two lines (objects) parallel to the same line are parallel to one another. I think this applies here! Hmmmm. Maybe it was a Theorem?

What version of fence are we working with (500,510,520)? 510

Is the table alignment complete and was that difficult to accomplish? If so, what were the problems? Alignment was complete and no it wasn't too difficult, but it also didn't result in a properly aligned fence.

What direction is the fence off and how much? Blade is right on at the front of fence (closest to operator), and app. 1/16 off towards back.

Thanks for the tips, and I will try them when I later today. You truly are a a wealth of knowledge in this field.

I am working with a 510 anniversary edition.

The fence hasn't been dropped, but I've never checked it for accuracy; I usually just stare at it waving my arms, beating my chest hooting and hollering at it.

When I do attempt an alignment I loosen the two adjustment screws on the back (nearest longing mechanisms) then I align it and tighten the rear screw. Once the screws are tightened all seems fine, however, (here it comes) when I lock the mechanism the fence moves right back to where it was previous to alignment.

My thought on the matter is that table is not 90 to the blade. When I suspected this I loosened the table and tried to adjust it, but as luck would have it it doesn't really have much play.

hmmm, troubling

[dusty]

tango,

Separate the two procedures. The table alignment and the rip fence alignment are two totally separate processes. The table alignment (miter track to the blade) is the basis for all other alignments. It must be completed successfully before the rip fence alignment has a chance. Actually, that is not really true. The rip fence can be aligned to the miter track without consideration for the blade and if done carefully will also be properly aligned to the blade.

You might want to review the forum for discussions on main table alignment problems; specifically, problems caused by the trunnion holes. It seems that some of the trunnions were drilled differently than others and this caused difficulty in aligning (moving) the table.

Don't hurry to drill the holes larger. It is not necessary unless all four holes are too small and then it is not an absolute necessity. Drilling the holes only allows easier movement of the table. One pair of my trunnions have NOT been drilled and I can still complete a successful alignment.

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=1769&highlight=trunnion

A comment regarding your last post. When you tighten the knob (241), the fence should move to the aligned position. Then when you secure the handle (234), the fence should not move at all. This last action is suppose to do nothing more than squeeze tight on the rear rail thus locking the fence in position.

A demonstration/test.
With both the knob and the handle loosened, place both of your thumbs against the Fence Base (235) and then grasp the front rail with the fingers of both hands. Now, apply pressure with both of your thumbs. The fence should align to the miter track. With your thumbs, move the fence back and forth. Now tighten the KNOB, leave the lever loose. Because you had pressure applied to both sides of the base, the fence should not move when you tighten the knob. It is aligned to the miter track.

Now, while watching the fence, lock the lever. The fence should not move.

[dusty]

I have not had any experience with this being a problem when locking the 510 rip fence, but the actual locking lever may be malformed. A close visual
inspection should tell for sure.

6185

[tango]

Wow, that's a lot of good information; thanks.

I'll post how it goes.

Hopefully my battle with the rip fence will be coming to an end, but I can't say for sure... it has outsmarted me before

[kalynzoo]

Dusty, what a great idea. My fence is true, but that is a great way to verify.
I have been visually aligning the fence with the black recessions in the table.