Switch problem

[hobbydad]

I was doing some drilling today, and when I went to turn the Shopsmith off to set up for the next hole, the motor would not stop. I had to pull the plug to turn it off. I pulled the switch out to look at it, but did not see anything wrong. I reinstalled the switch and it worked properly for another hole or two, now it won't turn off again.

I've done some reading, and it seems that this has been discussed here before. Am I correct that the switch has failed "open"? Do I have any options other than a new "old style" toggle switch?

Thanks,

Loren

[dusty]

Yes, you are correct in that the switch has indeed failed but it has failed "closed".

There is a very remote chance that you might recover the switch but if you did the recovery would most likely be short lived. Your best bet is to replace the switch.

If you do, attempt to get a switch rated at 115 volts/20 amps.

[wa2crk]

Try to remove the switch and take it to a good electrical supply facility that deals with the tradesman. All switches should have some kind of manufacturers code to identify it.
The toggle switch is not special it is a generic switch. As Dusty said it should be rated for 20 amps. The safety switch is a different story. For that one I would try a facility that repairs electrical equipment.
Bill V

[beeg]

Contact Bill Mayo from here about a new switch.

[robinson46176]

If you "really" need your unit you should keep a spare switch on hand. Not only does that guarantee that you will be able to keep working it also pretty much guarantees that the original will never fail. :D
A failing switch can often be revived at least until you can get a new one. Unplug the unit and try blowing into the front of the switch while flipping it on and off a half dozen times. If that fails to make it work unplug it again and grab a can of WD-40 and try to squirt some in around the switch pivot while flipping the switch on and off half a dozen times again. If it works then it should be OK until you can get a new one.
Here is a graphic on wiring a switched outlet which can be wired into a utility box with a short heavy cord to use for conveniently controlling some tools especially while you are finding a new switch. Look at the 5th picture down the page:
http://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/wiring_switches.html
If you buy one of these buy a commercial quality one, not an 89¢ one out of a big hopper.

[thainglo]

Loren - how old is your machine? I had switch problems on a 1980's Mark V, would always switch on. I was able to gently remove the rear metal cover, clean the copper contacts really well, reassemble and it worked great.

If you go that route, be very careful when you disassemble. There are two small springs that could easily disappear when the cover is removed. Also, the proper alignment of the two copper plates is important.

Not sure if that will solve your problem, but it worked for me and didn't cost a dime.

Matt

[hobbydad]

Thank you for all of the replies. I will see what I can do about the current switch while I look for a new one. Should I be asking for a "120V 20A double pole single throw motor switch" with the same form factor of the current switch? I saw the switch from Del City that Bill Mayo recommended, but they have a $25 minimum order. Any other specs on the switch that I need to look for?

The Shopsmith is a good teacher of electrical safety. It gave me a "friendly reminder" not to stick my hand in the headstock while the machine is plugged in. :eek:

I shouldn't be admitting that...

Loren

[SDSSmith]

I have used this switch from Willy's http://shop.willyselectronics.com/browse.cfm/4,2915.html for the older style (not 'C') headstocks. I would look for an electronics store in your area.