Who uses the 4" jointer for squaring/dimensioning?

[jcmbs]

Hello, I recently dusted off my 4" jointer and decided to again try square the edges prior to joining boards for small panels. I usually do this on the table saw with a freud blade or the woodmaster gangripping and then planing on edge. But I have the jointer and like most tools in my shop I feel the urge to ensure I make an attempt to learn a new way to do the same task or gain greater versatility in the craft. Especially with smaller boards (< 8" long) and thinner stock. I get a great straight edge but I often get a tapered board that is narrow in the front. I have tried to pay particular attention to equal pressure and reduces the depth to minimum cut needed. The result is a closer to square product, but still a small variance of 1/32-1/164th. Is this the norm or is my technique way off? Also anyone using this tool to taper legs, dimension for turning or any other misc operations? Thanks you for your replies.

Sincerely

Jason

[JPG40504]

< 8" is an indicator of attempting to 'join' workpieces that are too small to be done on a jointer. Thin is also not a good attribute for 'joinery' work with the jointer.

I am not clear what you are referring to with your reference to squaring the edges. If you are referring to making the 'edge' perpendicular to the face, then it is a proper jointer use. Keep in mind it only references two surfaces(the one being operated on and the one against the fence). Also unless the infeed and outfeed table surfaces are co-planer(horizontal both ways) it will create non consistent results. The work piece must remain in full contact with both tables and the fence throughout the 'cut'.

[mickyd]

What's your avitar Jason?

[a1gutterman]

What's your avitar Jason?I am knot Jason, but I wood guess that they are captain bars.

[charlese]

Hi Jason! Welcome to the forum. Your jointer should be up to the task of squaring the edge of boards to their faces. However one of characteristics of a jointer (any jointer) is it has no capability to make one face parallel to any other. In fact it can make faces more UN-parallel.

If memory serves, about 8 inches is the shortest workpiece that is safe to joint. At any rate, please observe the 3 inch rule and always keep fingers at least 3" from the cutter-head.

Yes, a jointer can be used for dimensioning, but it is somewhat a risky operation as you may lose squareness (parallelisim) on the workpiece. Yes, I have done this, but only in trimming width (edge jointing). Sizing operations can more precisely done with a thickness planer.

Most use of a jointer takes place at the beginning of an operation, where an edge is made 90º to a flat face. Once a side is squared to a face, other squaring operations are usually done with other tools.

To be properly adjusted, the two tables of the jointer should be parallel to each other. Proper jointing technique has the workpiece passed over the cutter-head and then slid (pulled) across the out-feed table. If the workpiece is pushed downward along the in-feed table, for most of it's length, this has a tendency to allow the newly cut surface to ride up from the out-feed table giving a slightly tapered new surface.


Looking for a list of things you can do on a jointer? Here's a listing from Shopsmith:
Here are a few other jobs your Shopsmith Jointer will handle quite nicely:
Bevel or Chamfer Edges - Create smooth, precisely beveled or chamfered edges on boards for angled cabinetry; making decorative interior or exterior columns; creating a bowl or vase glue-up for lathe turning; or cooperage (barrel/container-making) projects. No sanding required!
Eliminate Cupping - Boards are often cupped or hollow on one side. As long as they're no wider than 4", you can eliminate this cupping with a few light Jointer passes. This will, of course, change board thickness.
Square Large Stock - Squaring large (thick) stock on a Table Saw can often tax its capabilities...especially with resinous woods. Use your Jointer to deliver a perfect 90° angle on stock up to 4" thick every time. No sanding required!
Form Precision Edge Rabbets & Tongues - (up to 3/8" deep) - Form a perfect, 90° rabbet or tongue (for tongue-and-groove joints) along the edge of a board with your Shopsmith Jointer. No sanding required!
Tapering - Just clamp a stop block to your Jointer's Fence and you can cut perfect tapers for table legs, stair or deck posts and more. No sanding required!
Create Octagonal Columns or Posts - Just set the Jointer Fence at 45° and make a series of passes to "pre-round" square stock for Lathe-spindle turning... or to create perfect octagonal columns or posts. No sanding required!"

[jcmbs]

Yes those are USAF Capt Bars. I should try and clarify that I was using the jointer to finish the edges after ripping the boards close to width prior to gluing them up for panels. I should say they are actually 8" in length and 4" in final width. So yes I'm making the edge perpendicular to the face for joining the boards. I'll put some scrap boards across the jointer next week (hunting trip with my son this weekend) and check the adjustments. thanks

Jason

[jcmbs]

Hi Jason! Welcome to the forum. Your jointer should be up to the task of squaring the edge of boards to their faces. However one of characteristics of a jointer (any jointer) is it has no capability to make one face parallel to any other. In fact it can make faces more UN-parallel.

If memory serves, about 8 inches is the shortest workpiece that is safe to joint. At any rate, please observe the 3 inch rule and always keep fingers at least 3" from the cutter-head.

Yes, a jointer can be used for dimensioning, but it is somewhat a risky operation as you may lose squareness (parallelisim) on the workpiece. Yes, I have done this, but only in trimming width (edge jointing). Sizing operations can more precisely done with a thickness planer.

Most use of a jointer takes place at the beginning of an operation, where an edge is made 90º to a flat face. Once a side is squared to a face, other squaring operations are usually done with other tools.

To be properly adjusted, the two tables of the jointer should be parallel to each other. Proper jointing technique has the workpiece passed over the cutter-head and then slid (pulled) across the out-feed table. If the workpiece is pushed downward along the in-feed table, for most of it's length, this has a tendency to allow the newly cut surface to ride up from the out-feed table giving a slightly tapered new surface.


Looking for a list of things you can do on a jointer? Here's a listing from Shopsmith:
Here are a few other jobs your Shopsmith Jointer will handle quite nicely:
Bevel or Chamfer Edges - Create smooth, precisely beveled or chamfered edges on boards for angled cabinetry; making decorative interior or exterior columns; creating a bowl or vase glue-up for lathe turning; or cooperage (barrel/container-making) projects. No sanding required!
Eliminate Cupping - Boards are often cupped or hollow on one side. As long as they're no wider than 4", you can eliminate this cupping with a few light Jointer passes. This will, of course, change board thickness.
Square Large Stock - Squaring large (thick) stock on a Table Saw can often tax its capabilities...especially with resinous woods. Use your Jointer to deliver a perfect 90° angle on stock up to 4" thick every time. No sanding required!
Form Precision Edge Rabbets & Tongues - (up to 3/8" deep) - Form a perfect, 90° rabbet or tongue (for tongue-and-groove joints) along the edge of a board with your Shopsmith Jointer. No sanding required!
Tapering - Just clamp a stop block to your Jointer's Fence and you can cut perfect tapers for table legs, stair or deck posts and more. No sanding required!
Create Octagonal Columns or Posts - Just set the Jointer Fence at 45° and make a series of passes to "pre-round" square stock for Lathe-spindle turning... or to create perfect octagonal columns or posts. No sanding required!"
Thank you for the reply and that does clarify the uses of the jointer, I do use the Woodmaster for most of the dimemsioning including a straight edge with use of an 8' jig from MDF shelving and hard wood guide strips, and run the board through the gang rip saw. But I see some uses for the jointer, maybe a sawdust session might clarify the jointer use? Thank you

Respectfuly

Jason

[JPG40504]

One detail I neglected to mention in my previous post is the alignment of the cutter blades to the outfeed table. The blades must cut the workpiece(when fed from the infeed table) to the dimension which will coincide with the plane of the outfeed table. i.e. The blade at its highest point above the infeed table is the same height as the outfeed table. This is achieved by proper adjustment of the cutter blades in the cutter head.

If the cutter is too low, the workpiece will bump up against the edge of the outfeed table and cause the workpiece to rise up off the infeed table which changes the 'angle of attack' of the work piece to the cutter. this causes both a deeper cut from the end of the board to the point at which the workpiece raises up onto the outfeed table, and the opportunity for the workpiece to rock.

If the cuttter is too high, the workpiece will pass above the outfeed table and at some point the 'angle of attack' will also change but in the opposite direction as above. A deeper cut will also occur from the trailing end of the workpiece to the point which it 'slid down' off the infeed table. Rocking again is possible.

P.S. The cutter blades must also be parallel to the plane of the tables(same height across the blade).