Main Drive Belt

[Ed in Tampa]

I was doing routine maintaince today and I noticed the main drive belt
(v-belt) has a piece of belt coming loose on the inside surface. The piece is the width of the belt about 1/4-1/2 inch long and about 1/32 thick.
The rest of the belt is flawless no cracks or worn spots.

I was tempted to snipe off the piece in hopes of prolonging my belt life.
Is that a good idea

Anyone care to venture a guess on how long my belt may last?

Should I order a replacement? If so what else should I order. I haven't replaced anything in my SS since I bought it in 84. It is running fine.
Ed

[billmayo]

No!! Not long! How does that saying go: Pay me now or pay me later plus you will be doing a project when the belt quits. If you operate at min or max speeds, the belt will be pulled slowly into the center of the sheaves where it will hang and/or not rotate/destroy itself.

I have been replacing the main drive belt with a link belt (35 links) on my Shopsmiths which greatly reduces the vibration in the headstock. 1/2" link belts are more than twice the price of the Shopsmith main drive belt.

I would recommend you remove the motor/motor pan and vaccum the motor good. I always remove the speed control assembly and check the teeth for wear on the aluminum quadrant (pockchop). Then I disconnect and remove the control sheave and check the retaining loop, rollpin and bearing for wear. I lubicate the Speed Control Assy. with Top-Cote. I include several attachments I use each time I am in the headstock.

Bill Mayo

I was doing routine maintaince today and I noticed the main drive belt
(v-belt) has a piece of belt coming loose on the inside surface. The piece is the width of the belt about 1/4-1/2 inch long and about 1/32 thick.
The rest of the belt is flawless no cracks or worn spots.

I was tempted to snipe off the piece in hopes of prolonging my belt life.
Is that a good idea

Anyone care to venture a guess on how long my belt may last?

Should I order a replacement? If so what else should I order. I haven't replaced anything in my SS since I bought it in 84. It is running fine.
Ed

[chiroindixon]

I'd wondered about the possibility using a link belt but was unsure if compatible. Care to share more info a/o photos, Bill?

Doc

[Ed in Tampa]

No!! Not long! How does that saying go: Pay me now or pay me later plus you will be doing a project when the belt quits. If you operate at min or max speeds, the belt will be pulled slowly into the center of the sheaves where it will hang and/or not rotate/destroy itself.

I have been replacing the main drive belt with a link belt (35 links) on my Shopsmiths which greatly reduces the vibration in the headstock. 1/2" link belts are more than twice the price of the Shopsmith main drive belt.

I would recommend you remove the motor/motor pan and vaccum the motor good. I always remove the speed control assembly and check the teeth for wear on the aluminum quadrant (pockchop). Then I disconnect and remove the control sheave and check the retaining loop, rollpin and bearing for wear. I lubicate the Speed Control Assy. with Top-Cote. I include several attachments I use each time I am in the headstock.

Bill Mayo

Bill where do you get the link belt and what else do I have to change if I decide to use it.
If I remove the speed control does that mess up my high speed adjustment?
I read over the high speed adjust in the manual and frankly I'm not sure I understood what they were saying.
Thanks for all your advice.
Ed

[Bruce]

Ed,
Removing the speed control will not affect the high speed adjustment. Just make a note of the location of the speed dial ring when you remove it so that you can return it to the same location. If, after reassembly, you notice that it doesn't read FAST when at high speed, it's just a matter of taking it back off and readjusting the speed dial ring until you get it right.

Bruce

[charlese]

"...I have been replacing the main drive belt with a link belt (35 links) on my Shopsmiths which greatly reduces the vibration in the headstock. 1/2" link belts are more than twice the price of the Shopsmith main drive belt.

I would recommend you remove the motor/motor pan and vaccum the motor good. I always remove the speed control assembly and check the teeth for wear on the aluminum quadrant (pockchop). Then I disconnect and remove the control sheave and check the retaining loop, rollpin and bearing for wear. I lubicate the Speed Control Assy. with Top-Cote. I include several attachments I use each time I am in the headstock.

Bill Mayo I agree - Ed should get a new belt. It is actually a good idea to order a spare to hang on the wall. I did so during the recent sale. Probably won't have to order another belt for a couple of decades, since I have two on the wall. (Just think - I'll be 95 by then!)

I am surprised to read that the link belt cuts down on vibrations. When I read the "lesser vibration" claim in their advertising, just couldn't wrap my head around it. The links must be pretty pliable, because they're not at all uniform in diameter.

This brings me to a question. How wide are the links? After they are installed in the SS is the diameter the same as the SS belt? Seems the link belt has to maintain a similar diameter in order to function the same as the firm SS belt. If not the same - speed changes would not be as dependable. If the link belt fluctuates in diameter because of the sheave pressure, this would not be a good thing! I had thought the link belts were designed to function in fixed pulleys not sliding sheaves.

Once upon a time (20 years ago) - we had to put a link belt on a snowmobile in order to get it home before it got buried by snowfall. (The speed changing mechanism in a snowmobile is similar to the SS) It functioned enough to get the machine home but speed wasn't a factor. I Will say the belt showed no extreme wear after the 5 mile trip, but it was curled a bit and had lost a lot of it's diameter. Don't think we would have made another couple of miles. The belts available at that time (for logging equipment spares) are probably not the same material as the link belts of today. We quickly got a new stock belt.

How long have you been using Top - Cote?

[Bruce]

I had thought the link belts were designed to function in fixed pulleys not sliding sheaves.

I had the same thought. It would be interesting to get Nick's take on this subject.

Bruce

[billmayo]

I have used link belts on my table saws for many years and was very happy with a lack of vibration when using them. Of course, I used machined pulleys which helps also. I always try something and if I am not happy with the results, then I may read the instructions. I learn by doing things and seeing the results and go from there. I have link belts on all my belt driven equipment. So I started using link belts on my Shopsmiths several years ago with no problems being found at this time. I use each of my Shopsmiths as a dedicated drill press, bandsaw, joiner, belt sander, thickness sander and lathe very little, so have said very little about all the changes I have done over the past few years to my Shopsmiths. We have a link belt (35 links) on Dr Dave's INCRA Ultimate Fence/Router System Shopsmith 520 that we are watching. The reduction in vibration is quite noticeable. I buy and recommend the 4' long link belt from WoodCraft. It is very easy to add/remove links and this is their ad:

Power Twist Link Belt

Reduce vibration in any of your belt driven machines with the Power Twist Link Belt! Common V-belts develop a "memory" and retain their non-operating shape causing annoying and unnecessary machine vibration. However, these specially engineered link belts do not develop a "memory", but retain their flexibility for smooth operation. Link Belt is 1/2" wide, easily adjustable and available either by the foot or in a prepackaged 4' length. Includes instructions for use.

1 Foot of 1/2" Link Belt #25N67
Price: $6.99 Quantity:

4 Foot of 1/2" Link Belt #145530
Price: $25.99 Quantity:

I use Top-Cote on the speed control gears or a lubicate that drys so sawduct does not collect.

Whenever you change the main drive belt, you should always reset the high speed adjustment.

Bill