View Full Version : Lathing on the lefthand side? Outboard?
taylorleemusic
12-05-2009, 02:01 PM
Does anyone know if it is possible to lathe outside the shopsmith maybe with a freestanding tool rest? Dangerous I bet but possible?
dkerfoot
12-05-2009, 02:40 PM
I haven't done it, but there is no reason it would be any more dangerous than any other outboard lathe. If you have a sturdy freestanding tool rest that is.
BUT:
I don't think you can get out far enough on the left hand side.
The carriage gets in the way on the right hand side
I'd have serious reservations about turning anything bigger than 16" (and would never do that without a speed reducer) so why do you need to go outboard?
If you still really want to, you could remove the carriage. This would allow you to extend the quill to get outboard. I'd have to check, but you might be able to mount the speed reducer to the right-most limit, span the carriage with the quill and go outboard that way too.
I have the universal tool rest and the speed reducer and I have always been able to get wherever I have needed to. The universal tool rest is not perfect, but it sure helps.
.
dkerfoot
12-05-2009, 02:57 PM
I just checked and the idea of using the speed reducer on the far right, with the quill extending across the carriage would work - but not if the universal tool rest is installed.
One of the less than perfect things about it is that it is about 5" wider than the carriage. I also run into problems with the top knob interfering with other operations because it sits so high. It doesn't help to remove it because the stud is just about as tall, so you have to remove the entire thing to get it out of your way. It would be a much better design if the stud was connected to the knob and you tightened it into a threaded base.
Don't get me wrong, it is a big help when turning, but they didn't put as much design thought into it as they did most of the other major accessories.
taylorleemusic
12-05-2009, 05:00 PM
Hey I didn't think about the quill.. It's just that I am curently working on a 14" stave snare drum and would like to be able to turn a full kit! The floor toms and bass drums easily reach 22"-24" in diameter. Now that may sound huge for the shopsmith but keep in mind they are hollow and the wood is usually no more than 1" thick. I use a longworth chuck to turn and was thinking I could make a larger chuck that could hang outboard. Very intresting with the quill I will do alittle research tonight, I think think could be progressive.
Taylor
taylorleemusic
12-05-2009, 05:01 PM
Hey I didn't think about the quill.. It's just that I am curently working on a 14" stave snare drum and would like to be able to turn a full kit! The floor toms and bass drums easily reach 22"-24" in diameter. Now that may sound huge for the shopsmith but keep in mind they are hollow and the wood is usually no more than 1" thick. I use a longworth chuck to turn and was thinking I could make a larger chuck that could hang outboard. Very intresting with the quill I will do alittle research tonight, I think think could be progressive.
Taylor
dkerfoot
12-05-2009, 05:54 PM
With the lower mass because of the hollow form, I am not too concerned about the stability of the SS (if carefully mounted and balanced), but if you are thinking of turning something 24" in diameter at 700 RPM... Well, don't think about it! Especially with a home-built chuck.
The outer rim will be spinning at somewhere around 50 MPH (10 MPH would be a ballpark where most people are comfortable). Just the shavings hitting your hand are going to feel like bee stings and if it comes loose, your life will be permanently changed (or lost).
That is definitely a job for the speed reducer.
SDSSmith
12-05-2009, 07:47 PM
One other thought would be to pick up a cheap model 10E/10ER. Then reconfigure the supports and mount the headstock outboard of the way tube support (pivot base/headrest). You can also to do some trick stuff with pulleys to slow it down.
dkerfoot
12-06-2009, 07:06 AM
I also need to note that Longworth Chucks are primarily intended for finishing the bottom of bowls. They are not very good at dealing with side pressure. Presumably your drums will be fairly deep. There is no way I'd attempt what you are suggesting (at any speed) without using the tailstock.
You still need a speed reducer. To work the outside I would mount it between centers. For the inside, a donut chuck would probably work best.
Working on that big of objects is pretty advanced turning. If you don't have hundreds of hours at the lathe, I would stop and get help from someone who does.