Shopsmith router table HELP!!

[mistystarz]

I have the shopsmith dual router table .Can anyone please tell me how to use this thing ????? I have router bits S/S
they all have holes in them and sooooo does the router what part am I missing?
Also I cant seem to move the over head arm ??? If some one could please point me to a how to video I would very much appreciate it :confused:


http://www.woodworkingpinrouting.com/images/F22-01LG.jpg
Don't know if this will help but it is a pic of the set up that I have
Thanks :)

[jmoore65]

I think what you have is the stand alone version of the overhead pin router.

The current version of the pin router mounts on the Mark V.

I believe the router carriage on top probably has a lock to prevent accidental lowering.

I've not heard of anyone using this for 2 routers simultaneously. Normally, you use a router in the carriage above the table or attached to a plate below the table.

Do you have any documentation for this table?

Also, is the picture you attached one you took of your particular setup? I found it a bit unusual that it was in black and white.

There are several folks on the site with significant experience with the pin router - I'm sure they'll be along shortly.

Good luck!

Jim

[reible]

I have the shopsmith dual router table .Can anyone please tell me how to use this thing ????? I have router bits S/S
they all have holes in them and sooooo does the router what part am I missing?
Also I cant seem to move the over head arm ??? If some one could please point me to a how to video I would very much appreciate it :confused:


http://www.woodworkingpinrouting.com/images/F22-01LG.jpg
Don't know if this will help but it is a pic of the set up that I have
Thanks :)

I have this set up and it might help if you check out this collection of pictures of mine:
http://s589.photobucket.com/albums/ss335/reible1/Shopsmith%20Over%20Arm%20Router/

I would suggest that you attempt to get the manual for this machine by calling shopsmith customer service.

The handle on the right is loosened by tuning it (like trying to un-thread it), when loose it should provide a quill sort of motion if everything is working right. If it is really stiff don't force it. These systems are old and if they were not cared for several problems could be present. Force is not necessary your friend in this case.

Shopsmith has a new version and parts for that are active, parts for the old system that are the same as the new version you can get.... the old system parts if you need them will be hard to get, not available from shopsmith and very hard to find anywhere else.

If you can post some real pictures of your system we might be able to tell you if you are all set or needed to be looking for or making parts...

Ed

[Ron309753]

mistystarz,

I got one of these about a month ago. I think you'll love it once you learn how to use it. Jim is correct that Shopsmith no longer sells the version of the overarm router setup you have, but as Ed said some parts for the old system are the same as the new version, and I second his recommendation to get a manual if you don't have one.
The system is designed so that you can use a router above the table or under the table. You can 'permanently' install routers in both positions, but you definitely would not use them simultaneously. If the table you have has a lot of threaded holes, most of those are used to reposition the fence and to attach featherboards, but some are for an Incra jig that I don’t have. You should have three table inserts for the router table plate. One insert has a 1¼” hole and is used to traditional under the table routing. The second insert has a ¾” hole and usually used for under the table routing using a bushing. The third insert has a brass threaded insert in the middle of it. This is the insert you would have in place when using overarm routing.
I suggest you watch the overam router segments of Sawdust sessions 3, 4, 5 and 7. While the system Nick is using in those segments is the newer system, the basic operations are the same.

Sincerely,

Ron309753

[mistystarz]

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a176/Jrdragster123/IMG_1690.jpghttp://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a176/Jrdragster123/IMG_1694.jpghttp://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a176/Jrdragster123/IMG_1692.jpghttp://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a176/Jrdragster123/IMG_1691.jpg

Here are some pics of my set up ...It has a router mounted to the underside I have not mounted the top one as I don't understand how to . The one on the bottom looking down has a hole similar to a drill chuck . I am trying to figure out
how to use router bits I have ,they are shop smith and they have a hole in the center...am I missing a part ???? o_0

[robinson46176]

Great pictures... I was wondering looking at them if some (or many) of those stand and post parts were the same as the old SS RAS? Anybody know? I have only seen a few pictures of the SS RAS. It just looked like a fit.

[pennview]

Perhaps they are shaper cutters. Post a picture and we'll help identify them.

[iclark]

I have not mounted the top one as I don't understand how to . The one on the bottom looking down has a hole similar to a drill chuck . I am trying to figure out how to use router bits I have ,they are shop smith and they have a hole in the center...am I missing a part ???? o_0
to use the top mount, you need to have a router motor that is removable from its base. only the motor part goes into the upper mount. the upper mount will fit a range of diameters of the motor (the diameter of the part that slides into the router base). if your router motor is not in that size range, you will need to get an adapter. the manual will tell you what that size range is. be very careful that you get the right manual. SS customer service has been known to get this wrong. check the parts list in the manual against your hardware to make sure.

the router chuck has a similar function to a drill chuck, but it has a very limited range of adjustment. router bit shafts come in a very limited number of sizes (1/4" and 1/2" being most common in USA). you MUST have a collet for your router chuck that matches the router bit shaft size.

as pennview implied, router bits do not normally have a hole in the center (at least, not when fully assembled). if yours have holes, then they may be missing parts (like screws for guide bearings) or they may not be router bits.

there are speed limits for larger bits. having one shatter can be a memorable experience.

as others have mentioned, pictures of the parts that you are wondering about are a good way to help the knowledgeable folk here help you.

lest I forget, that is one nice looking tool. it looks like it should serve you well.

Ivan