What to look for in buying a used 500 or ER?

[jabberwo]

There is one of each available in my local area. What should I check via email and/or in person to make sure it's worth the money and time to go get it?

I've never used a Shop Smith but like the idea of it. When I watched the video on SS's web site the adjustments look so easy and smooth. But the older models (20 year old 500) don't crank to adjust the head stock? I.e. the rack-n-pinion some posts talk about? Are these older models much harder to set up?

thanks,
Jab

[beeg]

View this, it should help. Also on the blackboard there's a checklist to use.

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS121/SS121_Shopsmith_Reborn_Pt1.htm

[lv2wdwrk]

Here is a link to a document provided by Nick Engler that may be of help.
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS121/SS121_Common_files/Blackboard_images/Buying%20a%20Used%20Shopsmith%20Mark%20V.pdf

Also you might want to go to this link and watch sessions 21, 22, 23 & 24. Watch the parts titled Shopsmith Reborn.
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/Sawdust_Sessions.htm

Hope these help.

[heathicus]

There is one of each available in my local area. What should I check via email and/or in person to make sure it's worth the money and time to go get it?

I've never used a Shop Smith but like the idea of it. When I watched the video on SS's web site the adjustments look so easy and smooth. But the older models (20 year old 500) don't crank to adjust the head stock? I.e. the rack-n-pinion some posts talk about? Are these older models much harder to set up?

thanks,
Jab

All Shopsmiths (Mark 5 AND the older 10ER) have a rack and pinion system to move the quill (what the saw blade arbors, drill chuck, etc. attach to) in and out. The basic idea has been unchanged since the 10ER was released in 1948. On the Mark 5, the different model numbers (500, 510, 520) refer to the table system - basically how big it is and what kind of extension tables you have. That's really the only difference. There have been other changes through the years; color schemes, horsepower of the motor, and such, but the basic idea of the 5 main functions have not changed.

I think the most important thing to consider when buying used is how much work (if any) it would take to get it in usable condition. A lot of the older machines have been neglected and abused and will take some work. But, they can be had a lot cheaper. Another thing to consider is any attachments, accessories, or SPTs (Special/Single Purpose Tools that attach to the Mark 5 and are powered by the headstock) such as the jointer and bandsaw that might be included.

[wannabewoodworker]

Jabber,
If you get it let me know. I would be willing to take a look at it for you and tell you what needs to be done if anything to it to make it reliable for a long time. I have completely rebuilt my Mark VII and I am in the throws of rebuilding my newly acquired but sorely neglected Mark V.

[JPG40504]

1) Way tubes NOT rusted. 'Bench tubes less important'.

2) Speed control works properly(adjust ONLY while running).

3)Over all condition(oxidation, things move which should move).

4) Any Special Purpose Tools included(jointer, belt sander(6" / 1"), jig saw, scroll saw, band saw, planer).

5) Other attachments(lathe duplicator,lift assist, overarm pin router....)

These are in addition to the saws/arbors, disc sander, lathe centers, lathe tools, drill chuck... which are standard.

The Mark VII(aka Mark 7) had a rack and pinion to adjust the headstock along the way tubes, but they are scarce, difficult to repair(parts availability) and somewhat of a 'stepchild'. Having said that, it is a quite capable tool when running properly. The rack teeth were plastic and most have broken(when removed, the headstock can be moved as the other models are(pushed/pulled manually)). It has a reversible 1 1/8 HP motor.

The Serial number or date of manufacture are less important than the actual condition.

There are basically two versions of the Mark 5(Greenies and Goldies/Brownies) All the Greenies use a 'gilmer' belt drive with a 3/4 HP motor. Early Goldies are also. Later Goldies and Gray Mark 5's have a 'poly-v' belt drive and a 1 1/8 HP motor. Later Mark V's are the same as the poly-v model.

Mark V's were manufactured by Shopsmith, Inc. but the previous models(10E/r, Mark 5) were manufactured by its predecessors.

A Model 10 either E or ER were the original shopsmith which is a considerably different animal. Many accessories are interchangable, but major attachments(most SPT'S) are not. It was made of cast iron, uses v-belts and a 3/4 HP motor. The were built like a tank, but no new parts are available for repairs other than standard bearings and standard hardware. Parts(used) are often listed on E-bay.

Any of these in reasonable condition for a reasonable price can be considered a good choice IF you are willing/capable to re-condition them and maintain them properly.

'Reasonable' definition is yours to define!

Good Luck!

[jabberwo]

What are good prices for 500 and 10ER models? The owner of the 10ER says it has a router, and that's an add on, right? Neither comes with the safety gear shown in the videos.

thanks,
Jab

[JPG40504]

What are good prices for 500 and 10ER models? The owner of the 10ER says it has a router, and that's an add on, right? Neither comes with the safety gear shown in the videos.

thanks,
Jab
Look on e-bay at what they are selling for.

Depends on what he means by a router. If merely an arbor adapter and a bit, it is not very significant.