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fiatben
03-18-2010, 10:59 AM
As the brand new owner of Mark V sn292284, built March 1955, I am trying to give it the respect (and attention) it deserves. And while I have been reading thru the posts to the forum nightly and learning much, it seems I can't find the answers I need (although I'm sure they're in there somewhere.)

I should clarify, I'm a newbie, but this is my 2nd Shopsmith. I bought one, used, about 12-15 years ago while living in another city in what seems like another life. It was a great deal because it included almost every accessories available. Also, at that time there was a Shopsmith store in town!!! Talk about convenience. However, at that time I was much younger and my only concern was that I knew how to turn it on and how to change between tools. Maintenance and alignment were not concepts I understood so well. Alas, circumstances resulted in my selling the entire unit along with it's band saw, jointer, belt sander, etc. But it left good memories and a longing to someday have one again.

Ten days ago that dream was realized. However, the reality is that I've got a lot less machine this time. It only came with the band saw, and is missing the power coupling at that.

Long story short (I know, too late, huh?), I'm in the process of going thru the machine and trying to lube, tighten, loosen, align, clean, restore, etc. This leads me to my band saw questions.

The band saw is a Magna with a plastic front cover (somewhat busted, but serviceable). The only information I can find is a label on the inside of the cover that has a copyright of 1958 and a number at the bottom of EM-9118 12:57, which I don't know if it refers to the label or the machine. It looks as if no one had ever blown the sawdust out of it, but it also looks like it hasn't been used that much. However, it was used for cutting metal and I spent about 2 hours last night digging cuttings out of the tires with a pick. I also figure out (thanks forum) how to pull the upper wheel because it was reluctant to turn (whereas the bottom wheel spins all day long with just a little push), and was able to salvage the metal retaining clip thanks to the warning from the forum about how fragile it is.

The table is cast iron and I've been using a wire wheel on my drill to clean it up. It is shining up pretty! And I found Johnson's Paste Wax at Lowe's yesterday so it will get a nice coat when it's done. Additionally, the backup bearing were all "stiff" but a couple of drops of 3-in-1 seems to have cured all of them. The guide blocks were practically glued in place by years of sawdust, but they are out now.

But enough of my tale, I need a couple of quick answers:
1. Greasing the needle bearings on the upper wheel: do I clean the bearings first (and if so, with what), and does the grease I use to repack them really matter much (I have some white lithium in the spray can style)?

2. The guide blocks appear to be aluminum? I'm guessing these are originals. Should I grind the faces back to flat before reinstalling them?

3. Should I lube/grease/oil the lower wheel, even though it turns very freely? And if so, with what and how?

4. The tires are obviously original, and in my understanding that means they are glued on. If so, how does one "unglue" them? And at what point does a tire need to be replaced? These don't seem too bad, just smoother in the groove that the blade ran in.

I have other questions, concerning the headstock and table locks, finishes, upgrades and what the differences are between 500s and 510/520s, specific to dimensionally. But that is another post. Thanks for any responses and I'm really looking forward to being in this forum often.

The Hermit on the Hill
Ben in Northwest Arkansas

heathicus
03-18-2010, 11:09 AM
Welcome to the forum! That was a great introduction. Unfortunately, I can't help you with the bandsaw, but I know there are people here who can. I'm almost finished refurbishing my Mark 5 and the bandsaw is next so I'll be following this discussion to hopefully learn a few things myself.

beeg
03-18-2010, 11:20 AM
But enough of my tale, I need a couple of quick answers:
1. Greasing the needle bearings on the upper wheel: do I clean the bearings first (and if so, with what), and does the grease I use to repack them really matter much (I have some white lithium in the spray can style)?
Clean em up with whatever thinner ya have. Repack em with a grease, knot the spray can type.

2. The guide blocks appear to be aluminum? I'm guessing these are originals. Should I grind the faces back to flat before reinstalling them?
Yep, resurface them, or buy new one from Bill Mayo.

3. Should I lube/grease/oil the lower wheel, even though it turns very freely? And if so, with what and how?Same as #1.

4. The tires are obviously original, and in my understanding that means they are glued on. If so, how does one "unglue" them? And at what point does a tire need to be replaced? These don't seem too bad, just smoother in the groove that the blade ran in.Basically ya have to scrape em off carefully. Does the blade track OK? Are they cracked?

I have other questions, concerning the headstock and table locks, finishes, upgrades and what the differences are between 500s and 510/520s, specific to dimensionally. But that is another post. Thanks for any responses and I'm really looking forward to being in this forum often.The differences are the table sizes and support tubes ya can attach.

The Hermit on the Hill
Ben in Northwest Arkansas

Welcome to the forum Ben.

easterngray
03-18-2010, 08:02 PM
Ben there is a fellow on ebay that sells a DVD on repairing and maintaining the Shopsmith bandsaw - it is excellent and will be of great use for you. I highly reccomend it. If you search "Shopsmith Bandsaw" I'm sure you'll find it. Alec

charlese
03-18-2010, 09:14 PM
....But enough of my tale, I need a couple of quick answers:
1. Greasing the needle bearings on the upper wheel: do I clean the bearings first (and if so, with what), and does the grease I use to repack them really matter much (I have some white lithium in the spray can style)?

2. The guide blocks appear to be aluminum? I'm guessing these are originals. Should I grind the faces back to flat before reinstalling them?

3. Should I lube/grease/oil the lower wheel, even though it turns very freely? And if so, with what and how?

4. The tires are obviously original, and in my understanding that means they are glued on. If so, how does one "unglue" them? And at what point does a tire need to be replaced? These don't seem too bad, just smoother in the groove that the blade ran in.

I have other questions, concerning the headstock and table locks, finishes, upgrades and what the differences are between 500s and 510/520s, specific to dimensionally. But that is another post. Thanks for any responses and I'm really looking forward to being in this forum often.

The Hermit on the Hill
Ben in Northwest Arkansas

Hi there, Ben (the Hermit Arky) Welcome to the forum. Sorry, I'm not familiar with the differences between the Magna and the Shopsmith bandsaw, so my answers will relate to the Shopsmith version.

1> clean the bearing with mineral spirits, or alcohol, or a solvent and pack them with a good grease. I've used wheel bearing grease with no issues.
2> The guide blocks are probably carbon. Yes flatten and square the edges that will touch the blade. I have switched to "cool blocks", and have read that others use and like other special blocks and/or a bearing set up.
3> The lower wheel (the drive wheel) spins on a sealed bearing. There is no way I know of to lube it. If the wheel does not rock and the bearing is not noisy or rough, it is probably O.K.. If you have compressed air, make sure there is no caked sawdust around the bearing. If I remember correctly, that bearing is a hard one to replace. Maybe you could put a little light oil on the sealed edges of the bearing in hopes some will soak in.
4>I've had good luck with the original tires by cleaning them with silicone. I've used the spray silicone, but sprayed it on a paper shop towel then wipe it on the tires. This has softened the tires, closed up small cracks and repels sawdust. CAUTION!! don't get silicone on any surface that will transfer to wood. Silicone on wood will cause fish eye in a finish. Very hard to get rid of!
4 1/2> Removing the rubber tires is a very difficult job. Lots of elbow grease and scraping.

fiatben
03-19-2010, 01:53 AM
This is what I've done/decided:

I packed the upper wheel's bearings by hand with Valvoline Moly EB Grease, used 3-in-1 oil on the three blade guide bearings and the adjusting shaft on the upper and lower guide blocks, spent hours picking metal out of the tires, and even sanded most of the rust off a 1/2" blade.

Everything seems to be smoothly turning. Since I'm not really interested in a full restoration at this point, just excellent performance.

Next up, alignment and adjustment. Of course, coming up with a power coupling would be really useful. :D

I used a 4" wire wheel to clean up the cast iron table and it now has a nice, dark, shiny surface.

This is fun!

JPG40504
03-19-2010, 02:10 AM
If yer itching to power it, get a short piece of 5/8" garden hose(4"-5"). Remember to run at slow speeds(<=D). his would allow you to determine if it tracks properly, and get the guides adjusted. I wouldn't try cutting with the hose 'coupler'.

charlese
03-22-2010, 01:15 AM
This is an edit to post #5. Hope you didn't soak the bearing in solvent. Just read a magazine article about a guy that soaked a router bit with bearing in solvent and it ruined the bearing by removing the oil from it.

The bearing on the lower wheel of the band saw is also a sealed bearing and you don't want to remove the oil from it. As the attached thread explains in posts #3 and #5 explains the extreme difficulty in replacing that bearing. The bearing and the shaft are one unit.
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=177&highlight=bearing