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cml
04-22-2010, 09:40 AM
I'm getting my base frame powder coated as I type. It's expensive, mostly due to the prep involved. I'll let you know how it works out.

fiatben
04-24-2010, 01:03 PM
Is it possible to press on the quill bearing (single bearing quill) myself or do I need to find someone with a hydraulic press to do this for me? How easy is it to screw this up if I "try this at home?"

nuhobby
04-24-2010, 03:24 PM
Somewhere on this Forum I saw a picture of a quill bearing being pressed onto the shaft with a ~5/8" open-end wrench and a mallet or light hammer.

This may be putting the cart ahead of the horse, but you can also lathe-turn & drill old maple rolling-pins into proper-diameter aid-tools for pressing bearings. The wood has some resilience, so the hammer-strikes don't hurt the bearing. If your custom tool presses against the bearing's inner and outer diameters equally, you avoid stressing the internals of the bearings.

Also, don't forget to use your Freezer... the inner assembly part (e.g., shaft) can be chilled and the outer assembly part (e.g., bearing) can be kept warm, to make them easier to slide over each other.

billmayo
04-24-2010, 03:53 PM
Is it possible to press on the quill bearing (single bearing quill) myself or do I need to find someone with a hydraulic press to do this for me? How easy is it to screw this up if I "try this at home?"

I do not recommend a hydraulic press to install bearings as it is very easy to tilt/cock the bearing and destroy the shaft. I find using a wrench and hammer can cause the same problem.

I have accumulated many different ID sizes and lengths of pipes (use a pipe cutter to cut the pipe so you have a square end) (used deep well sockets for years) and use the one that is snug on the shaft to tap the bearing on the shaft. The thing to remember is to apply no pressure on the balls, like placing a deep well socket on the outter race while installing the bearing on a shaft. No bearing should require excessive presure or force to install. Check the shaft/housing to insure no rust, nicks or scratches where the bearing will seat/rest. LocTite makes a bearing compound just for installing bearings if the fit is not tight.

fiatben
04-24-2010, 04:43 PM
The thing to remember is to apply no pressure on the balls,

Yeah, I can see where that is kinda critical (snicker, snicker)

But seriously folks, good ideas and I have both deep sockets and a functioning Carba-tec mini-lathe if I want to make my own custom bearing press tool.

I really like doing anything like this with my own stuff and making things to get the job done. Just got done making a 4-wheel steerable dolly for my transmission from 4 castors I had hanging on the wall and 4 scrap 2x4s. If it works out really well, I'll think about going back and making a "purty" one out of some nice wood.

Is this the same case for the other bearings on the drive? The current bearings are actually in very good shape, even if they have rubber seals instead of metal shields. Now that I know how easy it is to dismantle, I'm thinking of just reusing those and dealing with them if they ever become a problem.

mickyd
04-24-2010, 11:17 PM
I do not recommend a hydraulic press to install bearings as it is very easy to tilt/cock the bearing and destroy the shaft. I find using a wrench and hammer can cause the same problem.
.........
OK.....so I'm a rebel.
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpost.htm?p=47789&postcount=206
Even though it's a hammer, there was feel, caution, and TLC used here. This was my ER10 quill bearing replacement.

wlhayesmfs
04-25-2010, 12:58 AM
Mickyd, someone had to be the rebel and stop out of the box. Might as well be you. How else can we see what we should not do if someone doesn't show us the wrong way first. You just put yours on picture and the web and someone saw it. I didn't take pictures of me hitting a wrench with a hammer LOL but love you work and skills.

fiatben
04-28-2010, 02:45 PM
Anyone got pictures of how they jigged up to press on (or hammer) bearings on their quill and drive?

Also, how difficult is it to replace the two bearings in the motor?

I can't find any oiling holes on the drive or motor sheave assemblies on my old '55. Is there a fix for this?