Dismantling a Mk5 500 Worktable

[PG-Zac]

I'm trying to dismantle my Goldie's worktable and it seems a bit stubborn, so any advice or pointers you guys could offer will be greatly appreciated.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/partscat/images/EXP_Worktable500.gif

The 2 main issues I am having at the moment are:

1. The rear trunnion (142 above) is refusing to come off. I can't see any retaining rings or set screws or any other mechanical reason - Is there any retainer, or should I just gently force it off? Oh never mind - When I went to take pics of the next point it came off sweetly. I guess 2 days of penetrating oil helps a lot.

2. The retaining ring (148 above) seems to be crimped onto the trunnion stud. Do I unscrew this from the stud? How do I get this off without destroying something?
http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv264/PG-Zac/Shopsmith/DSC00558.jpg


Also, my setup seems to be different to the exploded view above. The view above shows the Table Lock Nut (149) as a nut with an extended sleeve that the Retaining Ring attaches onto. On mine, the nut is separate from the sleeve & retaining ring.
http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv264/PG-Zac/Shopsmith/DSC00559.jpg

Thanks all.

[mickyd]

I'm trying to dismantle my Goldie's worktable......

2. The retaining ring (148 above) seems to be crimped onto the trunnion stud. Do I unscrew this from the stud? How do I get this off without destroying something?

Your 148 can be removed from its stud with a pair of locking pliers. When I removed mine, I just grabbed it with the nose of the pliers and turned it off. I had first tried protecting the ring with a piece of leather but I couldn't get it to turn so I just decided to grab it after carefully adjusting the amount of grip on the locking pliers so that it wouldn't dig in too much.

P.S. The ring isn't crimped but instead, the stud was struck and with a center punch in two places at the interface with the ring to act as a locking method.

Also, my setup seems to be different to the exploded view above. The view above shows the Table Lock Nut (149) as a nut with an extended sleeve that the Retaining Ring attaches onto. On mine, the nut is separate from the sleeve & retaining ring.


Thanks all.
My Greenie was like yours. No extended sleeve. Exploded view shows an updated model.

PG....make sure when you reassemble that you install the 142 rear trunnion correctly. If your Goldie is like my Greenie, it will have the word "TOP" cast into it. With the table upside down, the word "TOP" should be visible to you when you reinstall. If it's not, you will snap the ear off the trunnion when you tighten it.

[PG-Zac]

Firstly as Mike stated, the retaining ring is not crimped on. I think the correct word here might be "peened"

I wanted to remove the retainer without the peened threads eating the threads in the aluminium retainer and this afternoon I had a flash of (imho) brilliance.

Screw the retaining ring further onto the stud; moving it away from the peened end.
http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv264/PG-Zac/Shopsmith/DSC00560.jpg

And then file away the bulged parts of the stud and clean up the threads with a triangular file.
The retainer then screws right off without getting damaged.
http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv264/PG-Zac/Shopsmith/DSC00564.jpg

Here are all the parts successfully dismantled, excluding the pipes which are still a little tight. You can see that I have taken them part-way out, but they need a bit more oils soak time.
http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv264/PG-Zac/Shopsmith/DSC00566.jpg

btw Mike - my rear trunnion doesn't have "top" cast on it but it does have a raised button, so I'll just need to be careful to not break the ear off.

[mickyd]

Good approach screwing the ring on deeper and filing the stud. It makes more sense to do it that way. Although I didn't mess up the threads on the ring when I removed it without doing that, it did fight all the way.

The raised button on the rear trunnion is what you have to make sure is facing away from the underside of the table when you reassemble. My button was marked "TOP". When I removed mine, I didn't even notice the raised button. When I reassembled, I saw the word "TOP" on it and assumed that it would face the TOP of the table. Well my interpretation of TOP differed from the design engineers. With the button facing the top of the table, it contacts the table bottom and when I tightened the bolts, the ear broke. I wanted to make sure you didn't make the same mistake.