Mitering Opinions Please

[pennview]

Gene,

Making boxes with mitered corners on the Shopsmith (or any tilt table saw) is problematic at best -- all those little cut off pieces dropping into the saw blade and flying all over the place. Without a tilt arbor saw, I'd give the compound miter saw a try using some scrap pieces of wood to see if you can achieve the accuracy necessary for good looking corners. Try using stop blocks on the saw's fence to cut the pieces to exact length and avoid trying to sneak up on the correct length using the disk sander. The miter needs to be exactly 45° and opposite sides of the box must be identical if you want a perfect joint.

[dusty]

Gene,

Making boxes with mitered corners on the Shopsmith (or any tilt table saw) is problematic at best -- all those little cut off pieces dropping into the saw blade and flying all over the place. Without a tilt arbor saw, I'd give the compound miter saw a try using some scrap pieces of wood to see if you can achieve the accuracy necessary for good looking corners. Try using stop blocks on the saw's fence to cut the pieces to exact length and avoid trying to sneak up on the correct length using the disk sander. The miter needs to be exactly 45° and opposite sides of the box must be identical if you want a perfect joint.I sorta agree but at the same time I must say that the tiny pieces that you refer to are always a problem (tilt table or no) and have to be dealt with. Use a CZI if you are really concerned.

As for accuracy, I admit the table settings are challenging but they too can be dealt with. I use a threaded rod to change (fine tune) table tilt while viewing a Wixey angle indicator to verify settings (not the markings on the built-in protractor).

[Gene Howe]

I sorta agree but at the same time I must say that the tiny pieces that you refer to are always a problem (tilt table or no) and have to be dealt with. Use a CZI if you are really concerned.

As for accuracy, I admit the table settings are challenging but they too can be dealt with. I use a threaded rod to change (fine tune) table tilt while viewing a Wixey angle indicator to verify settings (not the markings on the built-in protractor).

The Wixey really does the job for me, as well. But. I'm really intrigued about the threaded rod for fine tuning. Can you tell me more?

[a1gutterman]

... Use a CZI if you are really concerned...Or a ZCI might work too.:D

[dusty]

The Wixey really does the job for me, as well. But. I'm really intrigued about the threaded rod for fine tuning. Can you tell me more?The only problem that I have ever had with the table tilt has been to change it a very, very small amount. I decided one day that I simply needed a micro adjuster to implement the change. A threaded rod is what I now use.

With the table tilt unlocked and the table positioned roughly to the desired tilt, I then employ the threaded rod and the Wixey to get it fine tuned. The following images, I hope, will answer all the questions but if not - just ask.

Zero the Wixey while attached to the blade.
Move the Wixey to the table. Note that I have a steel bar installed in the miter track.
Determine if setting is as needed. If not, use micro adjuster to correct it.
Lock the table tilt lock and recheck final reading.

If a ZCI is required, one will have to be cut for this setup. If I do not anticipate small cutoffs, I often use one of the table saw inserts rather than a ZCI. Call me LAZY.

I would normally not position the blade in the insert opening as is shown in these images. I would use the quill to center the blade in the opening and then install the appropriate insert.

[Gene Howe]

Thanks for taking the time with the pictures, Dusty.
One question: What does the threaded rod sit in under the table to keep it from sliding when the table is tilted? OK, two questions: The rod is on the down side of the table?
Thanks again. You go above and beyond and I appreciate it!

[dusty]

Thanks for taking the time with the pictures, Dusty.
One question: What does the threaded rod sit in under the table to keep it from sliding when the table is tilted? OK, two questions: The rod is on the down side of the table?
Thanks again. You go above and beyond and I appreciate it!Actually, Gene, that question is not easy to answer. There are at least three different versions of tables (505 and later) that are each slightly different than the others. The aluminum tube that you see at one end of the threaded rod was chosen so that it would slide (rotate) with reference to the under surface of the table. I attempt to locate it so that it rests against one of the ribs on the under side of the table or in the corner formed by the edge of the table and the table itself.

I find that if a little extra effort is expended when setting the 90°, 45° and 22.5° table tilt stops, the stops are very accurate and reliable. I seldom have to tweak the table tilt for these settings. I do so only for those joints that I deemed to be very critical to a project.

Example: A small project requested by one of my grand daughters for her soon to be mother-in-law. Capisce?

[Gene Howe]

Thanks again Dusty.
Mine's a 500 table. Webs will catch the end.