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osx-addict
06-01-2010, 08:15 PM
Well.. My wife wanted me to build a giant 'H' made out of oak to hold a large towel rack similar to this (http://www.amazon.com/Gatco-1541SN-10-Inch-20-Inch-Nickel/dp/B002G9TUZE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1275440736&sr=1-4) one.

Anyway, I somehow got her to agree to allow me the honor of using mortise & tenon construction on this project. The reason for this is that the bathroom wall has no studs located in the proper locations and we'd prefer not to us some of those icky drywall hangers if possible. So.. I followed the Shopsmith guide showing how to do the mortise & tenon joints.. The tenon was done first and was relatively easy to do on the 1x4 material -- although I did readjust the table saw height after I found my fence was not square (had to revisit the adjustments page for that). However, the mortise was another story.. I used my 3/8" drill bit to chew a hole in the end of the vertical parts of the 'H' but had issues with the drill wandering in the drill press position which caused (IMHO) a sloppy fit in the end.. All in all, it did work but I'm not convinced I've got a ton of glue contact area but will find out when I take it out of the clamp later..

I had the SS locked down when doing the mortising and the work-piece was held against the fence using two clamps.. Is the 'wander' I saw perhaps related to having a single bearing quill or something? I don't know whether I've got a single or double bearing quill.. Hmm.. Ideas?:eek:

mbcabinetmaker
06-02-2010, 07:05 AM
Rick it is hard to beat just a simple mortise chisel for a couple of mortises. I have some old Stanley flea market finds but check out the LN on this link.

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1291

Notice the shape of the ones on the LN sight. Bevel edge chisels do not work well for mortises.



Tenons are the easy part as you have found out. Another way to make the mortise is with a router in a router table.



PS edit: These are some very good short videos on hand tools and use http://www.youtube.com/user/lienielsen#p/u/16/30xvIjlqdUI

robinson46176
06-02-2010, 07:22 AM
If you cut the mortises first you can "adjust" the fit easily when cutting the tenons. It is easier to control the size of the tenon than the mortise especially if you are using a method other than regular mortising equipment.
If you end up with a less than stellar fit there are numerous ways to "fill" the excess space with solid wood that will still make a very strong joint.

shipwright
06-02-2010, 11:26 AM
If you are ever worried about glue contact area and it really matters that the joint stays put, I have three words that may help ...epoxy, epoxy, and epoxy. The proper epoxy used appropriately will fill any gap and will exceed the strength of the pieces it is joining.

Paul M

mickyd
06-02-2010, 11:29 AM
Rick it is hard to beat just a simple mortise chisel for a couple of mortises. I have some old Stanley flea market finds but check out the LN on this link.

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1291

........
Are those prices for a dozen?? :eek:

mbcabinetmaker
06-02-2010, 11:57 AM
Are those prices for a dozen?? :eek:


No Mike they are for a once in a lifetime purchase of a high quality tool. You really only need a 1/4",3/8", and possibly a 1/2" to do most wood working. Compare the cost of a $75.00 chisel that will last a lifetime (If properly maintained) to a $35.00 carbide router bit that will last a year or so and they seem to be a bargain. As I stated I have some old Stanley finds that the LN were patterned after. I pick up them up for a few bucks each. I do have a couple of LN planes though. I just think of them as a guilty pleasure. :D :D

mickyd
06-02-2010, 12:36 PM
No Mike they are for a once in a lifetime purchase of a high quality tool. You really only need a 1/4",3/8", and possibly a 1/2" to do most wood working. Compare the cost of a $75.00 chisel that will last a lifetime (If properly maintained) to a $35.00 carbide router bit that will last a year or so and they seem to be a bargain. As I stated I have some old Stanley finds that the LN were patterned after. I pick up them up for a few bucks each. I do have a couple of LN planes though. I just think of them as a guilty pleasure. :D :D
Well, for someone who dished out a little over $500 on a headlamp for my road bike (bicycle), I guess you eventually graduate up to that expense after realizing the deficiency of past sub-par quality purchases. I'll let you know when I get there on a chisel. :D

JPG40504
06-02-2010, 02:13 PM
Well, for someone who dished out a little over $500 on a headlamp for my road bike (bicycle), I guess you eventually graduate up to that expense after realizing the deficiency of past sub-par quality purchases. I'll let you know when I get there on a chisel. :D

I think you will have better success 'getting anywhere' on yer bike! I never rode a chisel anywhere!:D



OSX: A drill bit is a lousy substitute for a router bit! As you discovered a drill bit will wander severely when attempting to cut sideways. They are designed for straight off the end cutting only!

SS makes router bits with a 1/2" shaft(from 1/4" up to 3/4") that mount in a very substantial adapter/chuck. They cut sideways quite well. They do not wander, but the workpiece MUST be held securely.

BTW Oak makes it all the more difficult!!!!