New Mark V 500 owner needs help

[JPG40504]

I think that the floating table is a bit twisted. Trying to get that worked out before trying to align the fence. This is pretty simple but just takes time. Yes, where they meet, the main table is below the floating table in the front and above it in the back. So, getting out my level to measure X pattern across the main table. If that is all level, will then proceed to shim the floating table to match the main table. Will take possibly about an hour, but I'll be much happier. Then need to duplicate all this on the second machine. These are old, but I love these machines. They can have them when they pry my dead cold fingers from them. :D

Thanks for the software. That was too easy.:)

If you have two Mark V, then getting all the stuff for both machines the 'same' is a real challenge! FWIW, Mark Vs are NOT old! 10E, Maybe!

Nothing younger than I is 'old'!:D

[caappold]

Sorry for the delay. We just got back so I will try to get the pics up tomorrow. I did adventually get the tables lined up. I know that it took me a long time to figure this out and it became one of those DUH! moments. I ended up removing the main table and aliogning the extension to the head stock directly and then reinstalled the main table and aligned it to the headstock. I am still a little annoyed that I will have to do two alignments every time I change modes but I finally got the accuracy that I desired.

Thanks again for all of the help.

[dusty]

I am glad to hear that you have resolved this frustrating issue. However, I am still a little confused but you need not worry about that. What doesn't set right is stated in this simple question.

What do you do when aligning the extension table to the headstock that you do not do when aligning the extension table to the main table?

Just glad to know you are now ready to "Make Sawdust Safely".

[swampgator]

I would expect greater success with the new extension(wide) table that has the same extrusion as the main table.

It appears in the last pix the extrusion looks tilted (top outward). Is is possible bent,or is the camera playing tricks?

As they say, beauty is in the eye of the beholder; same is true for 'alignment':D


Today, got the two tables very closely aligned. In one of the pics, you see that I had a folded piece of paper to make a small lift on the left front of the main table. Removed it after I learned that I had not set the main table to the index on the trunnion. Made that adjustment, raised the main table, bumped them together and they matched excellently. Put the level on to see if I could get a rocking effect or see daylight between them. Nothing. Used the saw to crosscut some shelves and it worked very well. Now, going to work on the second unit. Oh, how sweet it is when I can see to adjust everthing to where it should be. :)

[allsas]

- wouldn't a large sliding cross cut table (http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/swd_crosscutslidingtable.htm)make it easy to square up the panels?

I have made five of these. I like them for the ease of cutting long pieces. In your case. a long leading miter slot guide would be desirable to start aligning the sliding table with 10 " of it resting on the worktable before the panel contacts the blade. My fence on the trailing edge of the sliding cross cut table (http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpost.htm?p=49353&postcount=24)is, coincidently, 36" .

The last one that I made uses counter sunk screws to hold the Blade guard in place. The blade is set close to the edge of the cross cut sliding table to act as a zci and prevent chipping.

[JPG40504]

- wouldn't a large sliding cross cut table (http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/swd_crosscutslidingtable.htm)make it easy to square up the panels?

I have made five of these. I like them for the ease of cutting long pieces. In your case. a long leading miter slot guide would be desirable to start aligning the sliding table with 10 " of it resting on the worktable before the panel contacts the blade. My fence on the trailing edge of the sliding cross cut table (http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpost.htm?p=49353&postcount=24)is, coincidently, 36" .

The last one that I made uses counter sunk screws to hold the Blade guard in place. The blade is set close to the edge of the cross cut sliding table to act as a zci and prevent chipping.
The Mark 5 and Mark V(500) do not have 10" from the front of the table to the blade! However an extension on both the main and aux table would get there.

[swampgator]

Really nice table sled. I made one similar, but like JPG said, we don't have that kind of room. About 5 inches before the blade and 4 or so behind the blade. But, a sled used with the extension tables is comfortable and makes work easier.

Where you have a wooden block clamp that you can adjust lengths of boards, I plan to adapt that idea with a t-slot. Right now, the reason my tables needed to be close is that sometimes when I am making a bookcase, I want to set the fence on the extension and simple cut all my shelves in quick succession. One set up and multiple cuts all the same size makes quick work. Thanks for the ideas.