Newbie Bowl Turning Questions

[basaltboy]

I have turned a couple of small bowls- first lather project with my Mark V. Removing stock from the inside was tough, a lot of gouging, pulling, etc. What is a good speed, tool and technique to use to remove inside stock? these bowls are 4" in diameter.
Thanks!10304

[mgdesigns]

Those bowls look very well done, escpecially for a first project. What kind of wood - Maple? Nice finish, too. Please elaborate, because I am getting ready to go gonzo on woodturning. Did you use 4-jaw chuck, faceplate, or what type of drive center? More info for the rank novice please Thank you.

[iclark]

VERY nice effort. the one on the right looks like you got into the hollow-form range.

I can't comment much on speed, but in terms of tool - the consistent answer that I keep hearing is SHARP to minimize tear-out. variations on the fingernail-grind bowl gouge seem to be very popular with the guest turners at the local turning club. "U" vs "V" flute shape seems to be a matter of strong preference for the individual but I haven't sorted it out yet. some seem to like scrapers for near-final cleanup.

Easy Wood just sent out an email announcing their new hollow form tool. it uses a Ci3 carbide tip with a very interesting handle. 1st production units promised for Sept 10.
10305

the shopsmith S-shaped tool rest is also helpful for rounded bowl interiors.

FWIW,
Ivan

[rkh2]

Nice looking bowls for first time. I use a bowl gouge for turning the inside of bowls. I have only tried the U-shaped type. The bowl set Shopsmith sells seem to be pretty good especially if you can get them when they are on sale. I always run my Shopsmith on the slowest speed when turning bowls and use the speed reducer when doing larger ones. I have the talon chuck which shopsmith sells and that has been satisfactory for me. Keeping the chisels sharp is a must. I have the universal tool rest and that works out quite well and the S tool rest for bowls.

Mgdesigns - I took the wood turning classes at the Franklin Woodcraft Store and they were well worth the expense. The first one I did was learning to do spindles in the morning and then a bowl in the afternoon. Since I have also taken every other turning class they offered and with the hands on experience and the instructor pointing out ways to improve my position, methods and such, I learned a bunch from them and feel quite comfortable with turning.


Ivan - thanks for sharing the information about the Easy Wood Tools. Didn't even know about them and see that they also are made in USA - Love that. I have never tried the carbide tips other than my captive ring chisel from Sorby. Watched their videos and they sure look quite functional and not a lot of effort. Might have to try them out when my budget allows for it.

[basaltboy]

Thanks everyone-
The wood is actually Sycamore from a sentimental old tree removed from my wife's childhood home. Finish is simply Johnson's wax. I have a 3/4", 1/2" and 3/8" gouge- nothing fancy. The larger gouge worked best. I do have a speed reducer and used it for roughing out the interiors. Try as I might to be cautious it would still grab on occasion and slip the belts in the reducer. I suspect that I should learn tool sharpening skills first. I may invest in a wood turning DVD I saw mentioned on this site.
--pat

[beeg]

Ya need a bowl gauge or a round nose scraper for the bowl inside. I'd say those 1/2" and 3/8" gouges are spindle gouges. The 3/4" is probably a spindle roughing gouge.

[basaltboy]

Thanks Bob-
a shoppin' I shall go...........

[cml]

Your bowls look great! I'm glad you chose a relatively soft wood to start with.. the first bowl I made was purpleheart, and it was a fairly rude introduction considering how hard and tool-unfriendly it is. I did learn pretty quick how to sharpen my tools, but I'm still way behind the curve on getting a good edge.

I just made my first hollow form bowl. I tried to make a hollow bowl with the purpleheart, but I couldn't get my bowl gouge to cut the inside aspect without catching really bad. I had a few incidents where it caught bad enough to launch the tool out of my hands and across the room.

Since then, I picked up a hollowing tool from PSI:

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCHOLSET.html

I have to warn you though, as shipped, this thing is DULL. I seriously have butter knives and spoons with better edges. It took me about two hours with varying grits of sandpaper to get the cutting bits to something even remotely resembling sharp. Once I did, it cut reasonably well, and I was able to hollow out a maple bowl without too much trouble, and with a very narrow diameter rim (about 1.5".)