taper with jointer

[scottss]

I saw somewhere on shopsmiths website a way to cut tapers with the jointer. Has anyone else seen this or done this?:confused:

[paulmcohen]

I saw somewhere on shopsmiths website a way to cut tapers with the jointer. Has anyone else seen this or done this?:confused:
Yes, all jointers can do this and do especially when the beds are not aligned. If you need details I would have to check the manual. Using the jointer works well for slight tapers on long stock that would be difficult on the table saw.

For short stock like table legs, it is easier to use one of several taper jigs on the table saw; I use Shopsmith's and find it excellent for the price. If you have to repeat tapers on a lot of material ShopNotes has plans for a very nice one with a stock hold-down in their upcoming Jig special, it also is in a past issue.

[Greenvilleguy]

Scott,

The Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone explains the different tapering techniques that can be accomplished on the jointer. There are several types of tapers that can be accomplished on the jointer that cannot be accomplished on the tablesaw with the standard taper jig.

Yes, I've tried it and it works.

[dusty]

Let me start by saying that most tapers that I cut on the jointer are unwanted. They occur when the stock being jointed is not held tight against the outfeed table surface throughout the entire cut. You can witness this by jointing a piece of stock that is say 3' long. While jointing, at about the half way mark, transfer downward pressure from the outfeed end to the infeed end of the stock and keep on jointing. When you are done, measure the width of your jointed stock and you will find that you have cut a taper. A small taper but a taper none the less.

I normally cut tapers, like table legs, on the table saw and then joint the taper. But, cutting tapers with a jointer is relatively easy.

Cutting tapers that meet your design specification is a bit more difficult and requires a bit of know how and experience. You can gain both by cutting up some of your scrape.

Use softwood scraps to start with. Say a piece of 2x2x24 white pine.

Lower the infeed table so that it is 1/8" lower than the outfeed table.

Measure and mark a line on all four sides of the 2x2 that is 4" from one end of the 2x2. This is the planned beginning of the 1/8" taper.

WITH POWER OFF

Mark a vertical line on your jointer fence that rises vertically at the point where the blade touches the stock being cut.

I locate this line by laying a piece of stock against the jointer fence and table and rotating the blade by hand until the blade touches the stock. Holding the blade in that position, transfer the blade location to the fence.

It's time for the first practise run. PUSH STICKS, PLEASE. KEEP YOUR FINGERS IN TACK. It is very difficult to do woodwork with your hands in bandages.

Remember, keep downward pressure on the infeed end of the stock.

With the line on the leg aligned with the cut line on the fence, lower the stock onto the cutter head and begin jointing the taper.

Remember, keep downward pressure on the infeed end of the stock. At the very end of the cut, too much pressure will cause a snipe. At this point in the cut, maybe it is more correct to say that downward pressure should have been transferred to the outfeed table to avoid sniping.

When done, measure your stock. You should find that you have a 1/8" taper beginning at 4" from one end and extending to the other end.

Rotate the stock and try it again.

Repeated cuts will alter the taper. Practise makes BETTER. A LOT OF PRACTISE makes perfect.

Keep the guard in place, know where your fingers are at all times and be careful. Maintaining your balance is important.

When you become comfortable with this, lower the infeed table and repeat the procedure for a deeper taper.