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james.miller
08-25-2007, 10:11 PM
My guess is that with the Lift Assist that when the headstock is removed it will immediately go to the vertical position. It would be easy to either tie the carriage down to the bench tubes or remove the end of the strut.

If you are going to take the headstock apart to clean and service it then why not drop the motor/pan assembly before removing it from the way tubes.

Has anyone used Dry Graphite Spray on the threaded rod for the headstock locks? I have thought about removing the threaded rod and spraying it, and wondered if it would be permanently lubricated this way. It might eliminate the need for using powdered graphite which could get into the motor.

Dusty, just went through the carriage lock getting tighter. The nut on the back of the rod wears out and it goes out of adjustment. It had caused the washers to dig into the back sides of the locks. I filed them back to flat and installed a new nut (nylon insert) now it works correctly. I ordered new locks and the special nut from SS but was waiting for it to go out of adjustment again before changing them. I actually ordered new locks for everything when they were on sale a while back, someday I will change them. I think the headstock locks may have to be changed while the headstock is off of the way tubes.

charlese
08-26-2007, 02:55 PM
...If you are going to take the headstock apart to clean and service it then why not drop the motor/pan assembly before removing it from the way tubes....

...Has anyone used Dry Graphite Spray on the threaded rod for the headstock locks?...

Granted, removing the motor/pan assembly would make the headstock quite a bit lighter. The only problem I have had dropping the motor is disconnecting the wires from the switch. I've found (at least in my case) this is an awkward operation. If it is easy for a person to first remove the wires to the switch, then this would save a bit of weight. When on the bench, I would want to again hook up the switch, run the motor while blowing it out.

Gotta admit, I hadn't thought about the power lift raising the tubes to vertical after removing the headstock.

I've used powered graphite on the threaded rod since day one. I drop some on and smear it around with my fingers. Don't really know what Dry Graphite Spray is. Does it come in a pressurized can?

james.miller
08-26-2007, 10:32 PM
The Dry Graphite Spray comes in a pressurized paint can, 10 or 12 oz. Spray it outside because the over-spray gets on everything. The color is well not quite black but graphite, anyone who has done a lot of drawing or sketching knows what it looks like. You can put several coats on waiting several seconds between coats for it to dry.

I've bought it at the local Bearing Belt and Chain and also found a can of it at a hardware store several years ago.

reible
08-27-2007, 12:50 PM
Hi,

One thing I wanted to mention on this subject.

As we get more and more post here some of the old good stuff is forgotten about. Nick had posted information about using air to clean the inside of the headstock... well you can read it for yourself at:
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpost.htm?p=860&postcount=4


The whole thread is at:
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=156

Ed

charlese
08-27-2007, 10:09 PM
Someone or something helped to change Nick's take on using air.
This pleased me no end, because I wasn't about to quit anyway.

He has posted (at a later, more recent date) -- to use air to blow out the motor, but only while the motor is running. You will have to view Nick's posts to find this one. I found it - here it is - http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?p=4666#post4666


This is what I did on the bench. With the motor and pan removed. Gave very good access to the motor. Better than while assembled on the Mark V.

reible
08-27-2007, 10:42 PM
Hi,

Looks like he did change his mind. If you want to get right to the post go to:
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpost.htm?p=4666&postcount=13

I guess the key here is having the motor running while doing the air blowing...

I never liked doing it that way because of all the sawdust in the air so I use my system and I guess it is working as my 31 year old machine keeps going with no major problems thus far.

The used 510 I got had a major case of caked sawdust inside... almost had to scape it out. I'm sure that took some hours off it MTBF.

I also think using a dust collector keeps sawdust in its place... I know I see a lot less inside now when I do a cleaning then way back when I "let it fly" so to speak.

Ed

OK it looks like while I was busy else where the above entry was edited with the information of how to get to Nicks post... so now you have two ways of getting there... sorry.