PDA

View Full Version : A good cleaning was needed


Pages : [1] 2

charlese
08-21-2007, 07:35 PM
As it is kind of a down time in my shop, I wanted to take the time to do more than routine cleanings. I had a chance to remove my headstock and clean, so this cleaning could be called a once in a year sort of thing. What I found surprised me, although there was nothing wrong.

I found that even with regular cleanings of vacuuming and blowing, there was quite an accumulation of sawdust mixed with black stuff stuck on the inside of the backside of the headstock. This is on the same side as the inspection hole. This is a place where neither the vacuum attachment nor the blower nozzle will reach. I think the accumulation was part grease and part belt refuse. It was surprising to see the gunk that I didn't know was there!:eek:

Also, as the motor was laying next to the upper headstock on the bench - and exposed (I had removed the lower pan) - I was able to brace the pan in the open position, run the motor and blow it out at the same time. This operation removed a lot of sawdust. A lot more than I would have imagined. This was also an opportunity to hand move the slide of the control sheave assembly and give it a good lubrication. Same thing with the lower (Motor sheave) assembly. Both shafts slid easily and felt firm (no wiggle). The "Short key had square corners and was clean and shiny. This made me happy. :D

Got a good look at the quill assembly it was clean. I extended the quill and checked the play between the splines of the spindle assembly and the nylon part I think is the drive and ring assembly. Remember when we were discussing the lag (play) in the rotation of the saw blade? What I found was just as I had suspected. There is no lag/play between those two parts through part of a rotation, but there is lag/play on the reverse side of the shaft. Why? I don't know, but as said earlier, until it gets worse (1/8" lag at the edge of the saw blade) I'll let it ride. The only thing I can think of to cause this situation is a minor misalignment of the bearings. Any more thoughts?

The speed control assembly looked almost new when clean except for a slight wiggle between the speed control bracket and the quadrant assembly. There is a little play around the rollpin. Because the teeth on the pork chop piece look excellent I decided to not mess with the present works.

A while back (about 2 years ago) I had replaced the quadrant as the teeth were worn and could have enlarged the seat for the rollpin during that process. At that same time I replaced the Control sheave assembly as the inside of that shaft had worn and the long key had rolled inside the shaft and it looked ugly. This was due to inadequate lubrication and I promised myself that would not happen again.

All is now clean and the belt is still (after 3 years - I think) at 1/2" it was re inserted. Another surprise - when re-assembled there was no need to do a speed adjustment.

I'd recommend this process to anyone who has not done a thorough cleaning in more than a year. :) This removing the headstock process allows a cleaning you just cannot do with it on the machine.

P.S. Also removed the power switch to see that it was made is U.S.A. Sorry, Darn it! Can't remember the manufacturer. It has a sticky backed foam on the same side as the wire connectors. There are no holes in the switch that will allow dirt to enter. The side of the switch had words to indicate the line side and the power side. So it was easy to get the black wire on the bottom (line) and the blue one on the top (power).

The motor was manufactured by a company in St. Louis and assembled in Mexico. When I lived in South Texas, (1994 - 1999) about 3 miles north of the Rio Grande, there were quite a few of my neighbors that had jobs supervising employees in mexican plants. Even parts of my Pontiac were made in Reynosa, MX. (about 6 mi. from my house)

alancooke
08-21-2007, 07:42 PM
Thanks for the great info, Chuck!

Sounds like that whole process would make a great Sawdust Session!

john
08-21-2007, 08:49 PM
Chuck:

Where do you find the time to do some of those things?

Besides the time factor, just an excuse, I must admit I don't have the nerve to take remove my headstock and clean it as you have. Just don't trust myself to do it right and find "it don't work no more"

John

ryanbp01
08-25-2007, 10:34 AM
Its really no big deal to clean and lube the headstock. This is where the air compressor comes in really handy. I just blow mine out with the airgun attachment after I take the screws off that hold the housing together. I, too, was scared about doing until I attended a travelling academy. That experience alleviated my concerns.

dusty
08-25-2007, 01:05 PM
I keep my headstock fairly clean but Charlese has almost convinced me that I want to take mine off the tubes and really clean it once.

I want a closer look at what is inside but I've never had the confidence to do that. My carriage lock is tight and seems to get tighter as time goes on. I put graphite on that threaded rod but there is no way to work the graphite down into the wedge locks.

Placing the headstock on a work table would give me the chance.

Now all I need is the nerve.

How heavy is the headstock assembly? Can I do this by myself?

charlese
08-25-2007, 10:30 PM
...Placing the headstock on a work table would give me the chance.

Now all I need is the nerve.

How heavy is the headstock assembly? Can I do this by myself?

If you can slide the headstock almost all the way to the left and raise the tubes up a bit - then you are strong enough to remove the headstock. Actually, you'll find the headstock itself is somewhat lighter than lifting the whole assembly. My guess on the weight is somewhere between 25 and 30 lbs.

The hardest part of the removal process is the first time removal of the allen screws beneath the way tube tie bar. Once the tie bar is off one can put their arms around the headstock and cradle it while siding it off the way tubes.

The other part that may be tricky is turning the headstock locks in the correct position during re-installing. Don't worry though! The headstock won't fall after the spindle side holes have been put on the tubes. Just reach in the inspection hole and turn the wedge locks to the proper position.
(of course you'll have to support the rear of the headstock, but that's no problem).

dusty
08-25-2007, 10:39 PM
I'm off topic but

did you tie the lift assist down or did you disable it?

charlese
08-25-2007, 10:48 PM
You're still on subject! Don't let that worry you!

I don't own a "Power Lift".

Don't think that will hinder you. Just lay a couple of wide pieces of 3/4" plywood (or equivelent) on the lower tubes to stop the table legs and lower the table while lifting the way tubes. (With the power lift you will have to lift a lot less than I did)

Then remove the tie bar after everything is stable and firm.

Here's better instructions - http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/servicetips/remount_headstock.htm No - I didn't have the cardboard tubes - would have been nice but...