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  #1  
Old 03-26-2007, 05:53 AM
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easterngray easterngray is offline
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Default Changing the Gilmer and drive belts

I ordered new a Gilmer belt from SS and am going to install it this week. The belt came with instructions, but I thought I would check in here and see if there is any advice to be offered by guys that have changed the Gilmer belt on their machines. I also ordered a new drive belt and am curious as to whether I can change that at the same time. I may not change the drive belt at all, in that the one on there looks pretty good, but the Gilmer is shot. Any guidance and advice is appreciated! All the best, Alec
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1960 Aniversary Model Mark 5 500 "Goldie" with most SPT's
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Old 04-11-2007, 01:23 AM
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Default Changing the Gilmer Belt

Since I repaired a Gilmer drive headstock with a broken belt several weeks ago, I would like to offer some tips on problems I found. The top gilmer pulley on the drive sleeve assy. has a clutch inside it and a set screw that is hidden by end drive sleeve bearing housing part of the headstock. If the gilmer belt breaks, it normally because the clutch did not slip to save the belt when the quill was stopped while the motor was operating. The clutch discs and plates will stick to each other over time and not slip when they need to. I have not found any information from Shopsmith or anyone else on how to test the clutch. Since you have to remove the drive sleeve assy to replace the belt, this is what I do to check the clutch. First look at the gilmer pulley from the accessory end and see if you see inside teeth on the setscrew end. The first gilmer pulleys made had no clutch but the clutch was added to prevent broken belts. Then I take the broken or bad belt and wrap it around the gilmer pulley and put it in a vice or pipe wrench. The belt prevent damage to the gilmer pulley teeth. Then taking a torque wrench and a 1 1/16" socket to a splined accessory metal hub (5 grooves) on the accessory end of the drive sleeve shaft, see if you can turn the drive sleeve while holding the gilmer pulley. It should take approx 20-25 ft/pds. to turn If unable to turn the shaft and there are inside teeth at the set screw end of the gilmer pulley, then it should be disassemblied. You will need a bearing or hydranic press to disassemble the clutch and put it back together again. I offer this service if needed.

The other gilmer drive headstock I repaired had a loose set screw in the gilmer pulley on the drive sleeve and would not drive the quill. Anytime I pull the drive sleeve, I always replace the belt as a maintenance item. I also replace the motor drive belt and lubicate with a few drops of oil, the motor sheave and the idler sheave.

If you have not visited this site: http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/productmanuals.htm there is a manual called: Replacement of the Poly V or Gilmer Belt 521681/521683
which I recommend you read and follow.

If the drive sleeve pulley has a set screw, be sure to check that it is tight and the drive sleeve pulley is seated againest the back snap ring, not the front snap ring. Do not overtighten the bolt (20 in/pds) in the ears that holds the idler eccentric bushing or tighten the belt to less than a 1/8" deflection. Loose is better than too tight. Too tight overheats the bearings.

Where are you located? Let me know if I can be any more help to you. Have a great day.

Bill Mayo www.billstoolz.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by easterngray
I ordered new a Gilmer belt from SS and am going to install it this week. The belt came with instructions, but I thought I would check in here and see if there is any advice to be offered by guys that have changed the Gilmer belt on their machines. I also ordered a new drive belt and am curious as to whether I can change that at the same time. I may not change the drive belt at all, in that the one on there looks pretty good, but the Gilmer is shot. Any guidance and advice is appreciated! All the best, Alec
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Old 04-11-2007, 03:47 AM
paulmcohen paulmcohen is offline
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Bill what is "Special table for the Shopsmith" pictured on your site?
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Old 04-11-2007, 03:59 AM
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easterngray easterngray is offline
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Default Thanks Bill

Thanks Bill. I replaced both the Gilmer and the drive belts before you posted here, so I couldn't make use of your advice, but I will keep it for the next go-around - much apprciated, thanks! All seems to be running well; I had my first experience with the lathe yesterday and must say it is FUN! What a wonderful tool the Shopsmith is! Cheers, Alec
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Old 04-11-2007, 04:01 PM
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billmayo billmayo is offline
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Default Special Table

I have a batch of Shopsmith 500 main tables laying round the shop so I made use of a couple of them. The main table legs are the same diameter as the SPTs mounting legs and the extension table legs. I cut the back leg off and welded it to the bar between the legs. I used a headrest to position the leg correctly. So far, I have not bent the bar at the point where I had the leg welded but if I was laying heavy items like a sheet of 3/4" plywood on the table, I would weld an L shaped aluminium angle across the bar to strengthen it. I adapted another 500 main table to the bandsaw which provides more support area with a fence and it tilts just like the steel table. I have a lot of unique Shopsmith projects that are in varing stages of completion as money and time permits. This is my retired hobby. I have a lot of the 500 regular extension, 7" wide extension and main tables along with a lot of 500 parts for sale or trade. Let me know what your requirements are as I may have already made it, working on it or have it in the shed or may be able to tell you how to make it.

Bill Mayo www.billstoolz.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by paulmcohen
Bill what is "Special table for the Shopsmith" pictured on your site?
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Old 04-12-2007, 01:36 AM
paulmcohen paulmcohen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by annbill.mayo
The main table legs are the same diameter as the SPTs mounting legs and the extension table legs. I cut the back leg off and welded it to the bar between the legs. I used a headrest to position the leg correctly. So far, I have not bent the bar at the point where I had the leg welded but if I was laying heavy items like a sheet of 3/4" plywood on the table, I would weld an L shaped aluminum angle across the bar to strengthen it. I adapted another 500 main table to the bandsaw which provides more support area with a fence and it tilts just like the steel table.
Bill Mayo www.billstoolz.com

I have a 520 but I still don't get what is special about the "Special table for the Shopsmith pictured on your site". Do you have any other pictures, the rest of the pictures are very clear as is the purpose of the device. What does this special table allow you to do?

I think most people here would be interested in buying Nick's Out-feed table support. Maybe if Shopsmith is not interested in marketing it you could.

I like the fact that Shopsmith sells accessories from Kreg, Oneway... I actually think they need to do more of it. At least encourage third parties to sell compatible accessories. Companies with "closed systems" invariability fail or open up after losing significant market share.
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Old 04-12-2007, 01:56 PM
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Ed in Tampa Ed in Tampa is online now
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by paulmcohen
I have a 520 but I still don't get what is special about the "Special table for the Shopsmith pictured on your site". Do you have any other pictures, the rest of the pictures are very clear as is the purpose of the device. What does this special table allow you to do?

I think most people here would be interested in buying Nick's Out-feed table support. Maybe if Shopsmith is not interested in marketing it you could.

I like the fact that Shopsmith sells accessories from Kreg, Oneway... I actually think they need to do more of it. At least encourage third parties to sell compatible accessories. Companies with "closed systems" invariability fail or open up after losing significant market share.

Paul
The main table support tubes are wider apart then the support tubes on an Aux table. What Bill did was moved the support tube from right under the front trunion to about a 1/4 of the way back on the tie bar. Thus he can mount a tilting table in the Aux table holder.

I can think of some uses. For instance let say to align you main table to a perfect 90degrees by being able to use this table in aux you wouldn't have to change it for operations like horizontal boreing, angle grinding, or even drill press. However in drill press mode the table would be a mite low.

The biggest plus would be having another large table giving you more continuous surface area.
Ed
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Old 04-12-2007, 02:40 PM
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Default 500 Special Table

For anyone with a SS 510 or a SS 520, this special table would not be special or needed. You already have a wide extension table, main table and floating tables. The SS 500 only comes with one small 4" extension table and you can buy a 7 1/2" extension table. These tables do not tilt or have a miter slot. The SS 500 main table is 14" wide, has 2 miter slots and tilts and is the base for my special table. I use these SS 500 special tables on either extension end on my 500s. The special tables can be used with the fence facing the front or back of the SS. I use collars on the mounting tubes to maintain the height once it is set. This gives me a 42" wide set of tables in a 72" space. I am continuing to find new uses for these tables as a platform for my jigs, miter gauge(s), Sharpening Guide using the miter slot, shop tools and additional support for use with the regular SS 500 main table. Since Shopsmith does not sell anything like this conversion, I decided to call it "special" for like of any other name. What would you believe would be a better name that would describes this table? Thanks.

Bill Mayo

[quote=paulmcohen]I have a 520 but I still don't get what is special about the "Special table for the Shopsmith pictured on your site". Do you have any other pictures, the rest of the pictures are very clear as is the purpose of the device. What does this special table allow you to do?
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  #9  
Old 04-12-2007, 11:24 PM
paulmcohen paulmcohen is offline
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Thanks everyone for the replies, it's been years since I had my 500. Now that I have a 520 with the new front extension and rear table I have forgotten about these issues. My biggest problem is setting up all the supports in a one car garage and then storing everything. I originally stored and used the Shopsmith against one wall work great for lathe and drill press but is terrible for table saw. Now it sits on the middle of the garage which works well in operation but with all the accessories getting past it is a challenge. I need to put a new floor down in the garage, I think I will spend the time and redesign the whole garage so things fit.
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